France
:
Vegetarian
[This section is in the earliest
stages of development: 17 July 2006]
Paris
I have visited a number of vegetarian restaurants in Paris,
and several that, whilst not vegetarian will serve vegetarian food. In most of
these vegetarian restaurants, the term ‘vegetalien’
(vegan) is understood. However, beware of places that,
on querying the suitability of this or that component of a dish, will simply
scrape the offending item from the plate. Some of the ‘vegetarian’ restaurants,
are in fact macrobiotic, and therefore also serve dead
fish. Whilst some vegetarian restaurants might offer several starters that are
suitable for vegans, there may be only one main course option that is suitable
for vegans, and no deserts. Even though the concept of organic beer / wine is understood, the concept of vegan beer / wine is not.
It is wise to check opening days and times, and to be aware that as the
clientele of several of the restaurants tend to be office workers, not
tourists, the restaurants open neither on Sundays nor
in the evening, and may close for a large part of August as well as other
holiday periods.
In order to give be accurate, I have given the date of my most recent visit.
Further information, updates and customer reviews can be read
on the Happy Cow website.
Tobacco smoking remains socially acceptable and widespread in France,
and few French restaurants control the smoking of tobacco.
Vegetarian restaurants in Paris
are nearly synonymous with very cramped spaces, making for poor disabled access
and very difficult wheelchair access. At the Potager du Marais, for instance, the doorway was
too narrow to permit wheelchair access, and so we had to go elsewhere. Disabled
access to toilets in vegetarian restaurants ranges between poor and impossible.
|
 Au
Grain de Folie [December 2003]
24 rue de Vieuville,
75018 Paris
tel: 1.43.87.05.41
near Montmatre; Métro:
Abbesses
|
 Vegetarian restaurant,
vegan friendly. Food: old-fashioned English vegetarian, e.g apple crumble. Tables: ground
floor. Disabled access very poor: extremely cramped.
English spoken.
|
|
Gallerie 88
[August 2005]
88 quai de l’Hotel de
Ville, 75004 Paris
tel: 1.42.72.17.58
rive droit; Métro: Hotel
de Ville
|
Restaurant, largely
vegetarian, barely vegan. Food: Moroccan/ Turkish
(rather oily). Tables: ground floor and pavement
(although heavy traffic makes latter unappealing despite river view). Disabled access possible, but very cramped. Tobacco smoke irritating. Open including Sundays.
|
|
Le Grenier de Notre Dame [August 2005]
18 rue de la Bûcherie,
75005 Paris
tel: 1.43.29.98.29
near Notre Dame; Métro: St Michel
|
Macrobiotic restaurant, largely vegetarian, some vegan. Food good. Tables: pavement, ground
floor and upstairs. Toilets: upstairs. Disabled access - inside very poor: extremely cramped; pavement
good.
|
|
La Victoire Suprême de Coeur [August 2005]
41 rue des Bourdonnais, 75001 Paris
tel: 1.40.41.93.95
near the Centre Pompidou; Métro: Chatelet
|
Vegetarian restaurant,
largely vegan. Food: good. Tables:
ground floor. Disabled access reasonable. Run
by adherents to the teachings of Sri Chinmoy. Décor
is somewhat ascetic. No smoking.
|
|
Le Potager du Marais [August 2005]
22 rue Rambuteau, 75004 Paris
tel: 1.42.74.24.66
near the Centre Pompidou; Métro: Rambuteau
|
Restaurant, partly
vegetarian. Tables: ground floor. Wheelchair
access impossible as doorway is too narrow; very
cramped inside.
|
|
Aquarius
[1990s]
40 rue de Gergovie,
75014 Paris
Closed:
rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie,
75004 Paris
[near the Centre Pompidou]
|
Vegetarian restaurants, but vegans beware: I
have been served non-vegan dishes in both despite explicit and clear
requests, and the staff really don't care
(re-confirmed in recent e-mail to me, and on other websites). Tables: ground
floor; disabled access good except for toilets
|
|
La Petite
Légume
[August 2005]
36 rue des Boulangers, 75005 Paris
tel: 1.40.46.06.85
|
Macrobiotic restaurant, partly
vegetarian, barely vegan. Good food, good portions.
Staff frequently unfriendly. Tables:
ground floor and first floor; toilets: first floor. Disabled
access possible, but very cramped. No smoking.
|
|
Le
Bol en Bois [1990s]
35 rue Pascal, 75013 Paris
tel: 1.47.07.27.24
Métro: Gobelins
|
Macrobiotic restaurant,
vegan-friendly. Very plain food. Ascetic décor. Friendly staff. Tables: ground floor. Disabled access
good.
|
|
Le
Jardin des Pâtes
[1990s]
a) 4 rue Lacepède, 75005 Paris
tel: 1.43.31.50.71
Métro: Jussieu/Place Monge]
b) 33 boulevard Arago, 75013 Paris
tel: 1.45.35.93.67
Métro: Gobelins]
|
Italian restaurant, some
vegetarian, limited (but reliable) vegan. Home-made
organic pasta. Tables: pavement and ground floor. Disabled access possible, but very cramped. Open
12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00
|
Beyond Paris
Cahors
Vegetarian restaurant with lovely Dordogne-like ambience,
although Cahors is in fact in the Lot valley. Visited in 1980s, so the restaurant may no longer be there.
Aix-en-Provence
|
L'Abre à Pain
12 rue Constantin, 13100, Aix-en-Provence
tel: [+334] (04) 42.96.99.95
|
vegetarian and organic French restaurant, with friendly
and knowledgeable staff, and good food. Food neither especially cheap nor
expensive; reasonable quality; different diets catered for (not hard to eat
vegan). Disabled access: reasonable. Nice little brochure.
|
|
Maharajah
16 rue des Tanneurs, 13100, Aix-en_Provence
tel: [+334] (04) 42.27.56.97
|
Indian/Pakistani restaurant serving vegetarian food. Some tables outside overlooking square. Disabled
access reasonable.
|
Avignon
|
Restaurant
Terre de Saveur
1 rue Saint Michel, 84000,
Avignon
tel: [+334] (04) 90.86.68.72
|
semi-vegetarian and organic French restaurant, with
genteel ambience. They served me non-vegan food, despite explicit requests,
and were ungracious when I complained. However, they later mellowed, and
offered me a vegan desert without charge.
|
p.g.h@btinternet.com