Scotland: Introduction

[This section is in the earliest stages of development:2 May 2007 ]

I have visited Scotland many times, although nothing like as many as my proximity would easily allow.

 Edinburgh

Many of my trips to Scotland have been to visit Edinburgh. Built of honey-coloured sandstone stone, the city is an attractive tourist destination. The East Coast Main Line from London, which passes through York and Durham, arrives at Edinburgh’s Waverley station, in the heart of the city. Walking out of the station deposits the traveller on Princes Street, Edinburgh’s high status shopping street. A shopping mall which is part of (or practically part of) Waverley station is as good a place as any to buy a kilt. Princes Street offers many more retail opportunities and enticements.

Walking west along Princes Street , past the Scott Memorial, in the centre of the city, beneath the castle, is the Scottish National Gallery. The buildings that make up the several galleries are attractive ‘neo-classical’, and I visited an excellent Monet and the Sea exhibition in one of them. The Scottish National collection, necessarily focusing on the work of Scottish artists, I find less interesting than that of the Modern Art Gallery . A mile or two north west of here the Modern Art Gallery stands in grounds that are attractive, and here is a pleasant riverside walk from the gallery. I love attending exhibitions in the Modern Art Gallery , some of which have been highly memorable. Close by is the Dean Gallery that not only houses works by the sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi, but also re-creates his workshop. Somewhere close by are the Botanical Gardens, which I visited in the 1980s.

Returning to the city centre, Edinburgh Castle (see below) is hard to miss. I doubt whether I have ever been inside the castle, and have little desire to do so. The view from the castle mound, however, is well worth traipsing up the Royal Mile for, passing St Giles Cathedral half way along. The sheer quantity of Scottish kitsch is not for the faint-hearted.

Edinburgh Castle

A little to the south east of Edinburgh city centre is the new Scottish Parliament building that I have not yet seen, but judging by the photographs I have seen uploaded onto the web, it will be the highlight of my next visit. Close by is Dynamic Earth, a modern (millennium project type) museum focusing on Planet Earth. For school children in Edinburgh Dynamic Earth is, no doubt, entirely wonderful, and I should love to have had the opportunity to visit something like it when I was a child. However, it is not so good that it justifies a trip to Edinburgh . Beyond Dynamic Earth is Holyrood Palace , that I have not visited [note to myself to check that there is public access to Holyrood]. Sitting quietly above it all is the grassy, windswept hill of Arthur’s Seat.

To the north east of the city centre is the cemetery, made famous partly by some of its residents, such as the eighteenth century philosopher David Hume, and partly because it is an excellent vantage point from which to photograph Edinburgh and its castle. It is many years since I visited the cemetery: I should like to photograph some of the gravestones.

Some miles north of the city centre is Queensferry and the Forth road and rail bridges. Both bridges are impressive structures, and the rail bridge is not only highly photogenic, but has achieved iconic status for a never-ending job that is so protracted that, as soon as it is completed, has to be restarted at the beginning (“It’s like painting the Forth rail bridge.”)

blue arrow  Fife

The ancient Scottish kingdom of Fife had its court at Dunfermline. I feel sure that, had I been able better to identify with aspects of Fife history I might have been better impressed with what remains of Dunfermline's past glory. Further east is the town of Kirkaldy, for which parliamentary constituency Gordon Brown is the MP. Not far from Kirkaldy is the unremarable little town of Burntisland, to which my paternal grandmother emigrated in the final years of her life. I visited her there twice, and was unimpressed on both occasions.

 Glasgow

I have visited Glasgow three times: once for a business meeting in Milngavie, once for a CND demonstration in Kelvin Park, and once as a day trip from Edinburgh to see the Merchant City and the Burrell Collection. The Burrell Collection was interesting, the building in which it is housed is highly attractive, but is located in a part of Glasgow that is out of the way and inconvenient.

 Arran (in the Firth of Clyde) I spent a week walking to and fro over the island. It has a pleasant climate for a place so far north.

 Loch Torridon. I spent a week at the head of Loch Torridon, walking to and fro across the mountains. It is wild and rugged.

 Dundee: Tay Bridge I have walked there and back across the Tay Road Bridge. It was worth doing once.

 Eyemouth. This is a little fishing village just over the border from England on the Nortrh Sea coast. It is little different from Seahouses in Northumberland.

p.g.h@btinternet.com