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PA Proverbs
(Hints and Tips) |
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If you have any hints, tips or other PA wisdom that you
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blog
associated with this site).
Minor alterations may be made to accepted items, to suit the
general style of this site.
Contributors will not be identified on this page unless they
request to be. Many thanks to all our contributors.
Please note that some items on this page do not fall neatly
into the section headings, so you might want to look at two or more
sections. For example, tips about the connection of a cable to a
microphone might be found under 'Cables', 'Microphones' or
'System Assembly and Interconnection'. (If anyone can think of
a better way to organise them, please let me know!)
My apologies if you are offended by the seemingly obvious nature
of some of the items. However, it can be useful to be reminded even
of the obvious, and some less experienced engineers than yourself
might find them them helpful! Please remember that these 'proverbs'
are just opinions on what is (or is not) good or useful practice.
They may need adaptation to specific circumstances, and other
opinions may differ.
"What really gets me into trouble is not what I don't
know, it's what I know for sure, but just isn't so."
− Mark Twain.
Contents
General
- Never just assume that anything is going to
operate as it should at the moment it's needed, without
having checked it first. Equipment goes faulty, cables
get connected incorrectly, controls get misadjusted.
Always test everything, well before the
event starts, to give plenty of time for correcting
(or working around) any problems you find.
[See Rig check,
Line check and
Sound-check
− Ed.]
- Once equipment is unpacked, and especially during an
event, keep all food and drink well clear of it − and
make sure everyone else does too. This is especially
important for equipment such as mixers and
graphic equalisers
that have lots of sockets and/or slots
for slider controls. Anything that gets into these is
sure to cause problems sooner or later.
- The better packed your equipment is, the less likely it
will be to get damaged during transit. Good quality
flight cases are expensive, but so are repairs − and
inconvenient too.
- If guitarists need to plug-in or unplug an instrument cable
from a guitar without first turning down their amplifier,
the noise created can sometimes be significantly reduced
if they first
grasp an earthed metal part of the
jack plug (i.e. one
that connects with the
sleeve of the plug)
and then touch
the metal sleeve or nut of the jack socket with a finger of
that hand, maintaining contact until the plug is fully
in or out and taking care not to touch the tip of the plug.
If the socket has no accessible metal parts,
then instead of touching the socket with a finger
use the other hand to touch an earthed metal part of
the guitar (e.g. the pick-ups). (As an alternative,
self-shorting jack plugs are now available.) However,
these methods may not be effective in the case of
instruments that have a built-in
pre-amp whose
battery-power is switched by the insertion/removal of
the jack plug. [Ideally, of course, a
guitarist should indicate to the
sound engineer to
mute the relevant
channel on the
mixer, before unplugging any
cables, but that will only prevent unwanted sounds from
the FOH and
monitor speakers −
not (usually) from the guitarist's
backline − Ed.]
- To help keep on good terms with hire companies, always
normalise their equipment
before returning it to them.
- When cleaning CDs, always wipe in straight lines from the
centre outwards (this minimises the effect of any minor
abrasion caused by the cleaning). And if cleaning to try
to correct a problem with a particular track, remember that
track number 1 is the innermost track on the disc.
Back to top.
Microphones
(Also see the Microphones
page.)
- Always use the appropriate kind of mic for the job
(see the microphone
selector).
- After speakers, this is the part of the system that
will make the most difference, in terms of sound quality,
so don't compromise. In general, avoid budget types.
Only use high-impedance
or unbalanced
types if essential − they require suitable
connection arrangements to avoid sound quality
problems.
- Although capable of a better quality sound,
condenser mics can
be more prone to damage by rough handling. So for rough
stage vocals use, use a rugged good quality
dynamic mic
such as the Shure SM58, and only use condenser mics where
really necessary, such as for drum kit
overheads.
- To avoid the embarrassment of flat batteries, use
phantom powered
condenser mics and DI boxes
rather than battery-powered ones. (Some are capable of
being powered either way.)
- Don't test mics by blowing into them or tapping them, as
this can cause damage. Speak or sing into them instead.
The spoken words "one", "two",
"test" and
"check" are 'tried and tested' words to use.
When adjusting the mic channel
EQ,
listen to "one" to adjust the
bass,
"two" and/or "test" to adjust the
treble, and "check"
to adjust the mid-range
frequencies. Alternatively, if a mic needs to be checked
during an event and speaking into it would be
inappropriate, lightly scratch the
basket of the mic with a
fingernail.
- When using multiple hand-held
radio mics,
or if wired mics
need to be moved around on the stage (or are liable to be
taken off their stands and replaced on different ones by
vocalists!), identify each mic with a
different colour of self-adhesive tape − stick
a piece of the same coloured tape against the relevant
fader of the mixer,
so you can readily keep track of which fader controls
which mic. Wrap a band of the tape
around both ends of the held part of the mic, as
either end may be at some time obscured by the performer's
hand.
- Encourage performers in correct
microphone
technique, such
as holding the mic at an appropriate distance for the
particular use, and at the correct height and angle.
(However, don't forget the visual aspect − there's little
more frustrating to an audience than never being able to see
the performer's lips, even if the sound is superb −
especially when close-up video is in use.)
- Try to discourage vocalists from wrapping their fingers
around the basket of the
microphone, as obstructing the entry of sound into part
of the microphone can significantly alter its directional
characteristics and may make
feedback more likely and/or
cause undesirable
tonal colouration.
- Try to discourage vocalists from holding radio mics at
the very bottom end, in the case of types that have a
projecting aerial there, as this would reduce the
effective power of the transmitted radio signal, and
so increase the likelihood of reception problems.
- Unless essential, avoid wired mics that have on/off switches.
Some performers have a habit of switching them off accidentally
(or deliberately and then forgetting they've done so), or
leaving a mic switched off for a later performer who expects
to find it switched on.
- Correct placement of mics is often critical to achieving
the best results, especially when close-miking acoustic
instruments. When deciding where to place a mic, it's
worth considering that
the mic will 'hear' much the same sound as if you placed
your ear in that position, pointing in the same direction.
(But when trying this, beware of high sound levels.)
- When miking-up a
multi-driver instrument
cab, listen to the cab first
to check that the driver you choose
to mike-up isn't a dodgy-sounding one. (Again, beware of
high sound levels.)
- When a mic is used with a tight-fitting mic clip,
be aware that the pressure of the clip can cause the
XLR latch to be released as
the mic is removed from its stand by the performer, with
the possibility that the XLR plug can then lose electrical
connection with the mic, or even fall out completely.
If this looks a
possibility, be sure to place the mic into the clip with the
XLR latch-release button in line with the slot of the clip,
and ensure that the performer knows to replace the mic
similarly.
- Inferior quality windshields
can seriously damage your sound!
- When using condenser mics with phantom powering, check
that the voltage of the available phantom power is correct
for the microphones before connecting them.
- When using several condenser mics and/or
DI boxes with
phantom powering, check that the the total current demand
of all the phantom-powered devices connected to the mixer
does not exceed the total phantom power current available
from the mixer.
- If using a
ribbon mic,
it is best to avoid applying phantom power to it
if at all possible, as a fault in the mic cable
can easily cause the mic to be seriously damaged.
- When using a ribbon mic, never blow into the mic,
as this is almost certain to cause serious damage to
it.
- If a mic is suspected of being faulty, don't put it back
in the box with the others, to be taken out again and be
used another time. Put it separately (preferably marked in
some obvious way) until it has been checked and repaired.
- When attaching a lavalier
mic to its user's clothing, get them to tilt their head
fully forwards and ideally clip the mic at a height
about 2 cm (1 inch) below the point on
their chest where their chin
touches it. If the user is to be facing forwards for the
majority of the time, then preferably clip it at a central
position.
If the user is to be predominantly facing towards one side
(as in some interview situations), then clip the mic
at that side of centre.
- If a new mic has to added, or a faulty one replaced, during
a performance, it is often inappropriate for it to be tested
in the normal way, by someone speaking into it. Even if the
mic is not routed to FOH
during the test, seeing a person speak into it can be a
visual distraction.
In such cases the basic operation of the mic can be confirmed
by activating the PFL on the
relevant channel, turning up the headphones level control,
and listening for the
ambient sound
picked up by the mic.
(It may also be necessary to temporarily turn up the channel
gain control, depending upon the sound level in the
vicinity of the mic.) The only problem with this is that it
doesn't confirm that you really are listening to the new mic
(it may have been plugged into the wrong channel on the
stagebox!).
So if the mic is being placed by someone other than
yourself, a better approach is to have them lightly
scratch the basket of the mic with a fingernail, while
you listen for this distinctive sound via the channel
PFL. The assistant can be given a 'thumbs up' signal
when this check is completed.
- If a performer insists on swinging a mic on its cable,
do not rely on the latch of the XLR connector to secure
the mic to its cable. Use only a heavy-duty mic cable in
good condition, and check the tightness of the XLR's cable
clamp. Wrap plenty of
gaffer tape around the
mic, the connector and at least the first 150 mm (6")
of cable (taking care not to tape over the
XLR latch release button!). Also, to help ensure that there
is no possibility of the mic or its cable striking another
performer, crew personnel, or object, securely attach some
coloured tape to the cable to indicate the furthest distance
from the mic that the cable can be safely held by the
performer, when swinging it.
- When using microphones some distance from the sound source
(for example in the case of drum kit overheads, choir mics
or rifle mics), and
monitor speakers are in use, take care to avoid the
sound from those speakers being picked-up by the mics
along with the wanted sound, as that can degrade the
FOH mix.
This can be a particular
problem with drum kit overheads, because most dummers
like their monitors loud. Consider using headphones or
IEMs instead.
Otherwise, minimise problems by using positioning and
directionality of both the
mic(s) and the
monitor(s),
and keep the monitor(s) levels
down to the minimum acceptable.
- When an acoustic guitar doesn't have a built-in pickup,
close-up use of a stand-mounted microphone is best avoided
if the guitarist is standing, because even slight
movement of the guitar body relative to the mic can
significantly affect the nature of the picked-up sound
(as well as its level). In a live situation when
close-miking of a guitar is required, the guitarist
should be seated (and should take care to hold the guitar
in a fixed position) or else a miniature
gooseneck mic, or
a suitable temporary pick-up, should be attached to
the guitar. (In a studio recording situation, use of a
stand-mounted mic may be suitable if it can be placed
at a sufficient distance from the guitar to make any small
changes in position and distance less significant.)
Back to top.
System Assembly and Interconnection
(Also see the
System Assembly page.)
- When deciding on the location of the
front-of-house
mixer, don't assume that a position on the centre-line of
the venue will give the best listening position.
Although this is often the best choice,
sometimes sound reflections from surfaces (especially curved
ceilings) can cause problematic cancellations at a
central position, so a position slightly to one side
may be preferable in such circumstances.
- For rapid location of a desired channel during an event,
when cabling-up the system assign the stage
signal sources to the mixer channels in the same order that
they are positioned across the stage (as viewed from the mixing
position). As it's usually helpful to keep the channels used
for vocals next to each other, assign those channels (in stage
position order) first, followed by the instrument channels
(in stage position order). [Or, use a standard ordering such
as the one shown here
− Ed.]
- To avoid dangerous and/or expensive mistakes, don't use the
same kind of connectors for
different purposes in the same system. In particular,
beware of multiple uses for
Socapex connectors
(mains power,
balanced audio
lines or
amp-to-speaker connections) and for
XLRs (balanced audio lines or
low-power amp-to-speaker connections). This is especially
important for touring systems, and even more so when
unskilled people are assisting in assembling the rig.
(If such mixed use is unavoidable, ensure that all
the relevant connectors are very clearly labelled.)
- If it is desired to extract a
line level signal from one
or more individual channels of a mixer, e.g. to
feed
IEM transmitters
for individual performers, or for multi-track recording
purposes, and there is no
'direct out' facility,
you can use the channel
'insert' facility of your
mixer (if it has that!). For each channel of
interest, you need to make (or otherwise obtain) a special
cable, consisting of an
unbalanced
screened cable
terminated in a
3-pole ("stereo")
jack plug. The screen of
the cable is connected to the sleeve of the plug
(as usual) but the 'signal' (hot)
conductor is connected to both
the tip and the ring of the plug. This plug then
connects into the 'Insert' socket on the relevant mixer
channel; the link between tip and ring connections prevents
the signal path through the mixer from being broken.
The other end of the cable is terminated normally in
whatever kind of connector is needed for the equipment you
are feeding the signal into.
The internal wiring of the 'Insert' socket on some mixers
supposedly avoids the need for such a special cable,
allowing a signal to be extracted by inserting an ordinary
2-pole ("mono") jack plug
only partially into the socket − just to the first 'click'.
However, this is not recommended because in a large system
it would be too easy to forget which plugs are deliberately
partially inserted − it would be all too likely (especially
for some other 'helpful' soul) to think that the plug had not
been properly inserted, or had subsequently taken a tug on
its cable, and push it fully in. The consequences would not
be good.
- Most tape, CD, and DAT recorders
reproduce their input signals on their output connections
when in record mode. Therefore, when such a machine is
connected to a mixer for both recording and playback,
there is a likelihood of an electrical feedback loop
being created which can seriously damage speakers, etc.
So unless you are sure your machine does not have this
facility, or has a foolproof way of disabling it, always use
the designated 'playback' inputs on the mixer (which
usually do not feed to the 'record' outputs −
but do check this!), rather than using
normal channel inputs. (Alternatively, use an auxiliary
output on the mixer, rather than the 'record' output, and
be very careful not to turn up that Aux Send on the
channel(s)
used for playback. For a mix the same as the main mix, use a
post-fade auxiliary and set all the required Aux Sends to
3 o'clock − or to
'0 dB' if marked.)
- Be aware that most mixing desks do not isolate the XLR (mic)
input of a channel when a jack is inserted into the channel's
line input. So it's always best to remove the plug
from the mic input when the line input is being used, to
avoid the possibility of interference with the line-level
signal from any unexpected signal or connection on the XLR
cable (especially if it routes to a
stagebox). [Of course, the
converse also applies − Ed.]
- To assist in balancing Left and Right speaker levels, use the
same length of speaker cable for both Left and Right speakers
− even when the Left and Right amplifiers are located
together and closer to one side than the other.
- Consider using a 2-channel amplifier configuration, with
separate 'Left' and 'Right' connections from the mixer,
even when you're mixing in mono. That way, if an amplifier
fault or an amplifier feed fault develops during an event,
you'll probably only lose half of the system rather than
all of it.
- When not a safety hazard or too unsightly,
coil any excess length of stage cables at the
source (e.g. mic) end of the cable.
This avoids the stagebox area
being cluttered-up with all the spare cable (which can make
later access difficult) and makes those last-minute changes
of mic location much easier to cope with − especially when
the cable run to the stagebox has been taped down. If for some
reason the coils can't be at the source ends,
make them a metre or so away from the stagebox − and use
a releaseable cable tie around each coil to prevent them
getting jumbled.
- When connecting an unbalanced
instrument feed to a mixer or stagebox,
always use a DI box.
Don't be tempted to use an in-line adaptor to convert from an
unbalanced jack to an XLR, as these don't provide a
balanced signal to the
mixer and can cause serious damage to instruments if the mixer
has phantom powering
switched on.
- If your speaker cables have jack plugs at the end that
connects to the speakers, don't plug-in or unplug the jack
while the other end of the cable is connected to an amplifier
that is switched on. (As the plug goes in or out, the sleeve
contact inside the socket could bridge across the insulation
between the sleeve and tip of the plug, short-circuiting
the amplifier output and damaging the amplifier.)
In any case, it is not recommended to connect or disconnect
speakers from amplifiers that are switched on. − Also
see the next tip.
- Unless your speaker cables have connectors with
protected contacts (such as
Speakons) at the
speaker end, don't leave that end of
the cable unplugged while the other end of the cable is
connected to an amplifier that is switched on. (The
'signal +' (hot)
pole of the plug could touch
onto earthed metalwork,
short-circuiting the amplifier output and damaging the
amplifier.) − Also see the previous tip.
- Preferably, avoid connecting speaker outputs of
backline amplifiers to DI boxes.
(Instead, use a mic on the speaker, and/or use a line-level
output into a DI box.) If you must do this, only use a DI box
that has a specifically-designated speaker input, only use
a passive DI box, use a
correctly-wired speaker cable to make the interconnection
and take great care to make sure that the DI box's
earth lift switch is in
the 'LIFT' position before you connect the
amplifier to it.
[Also see the previous two proverbs, and see
Emulated line
output − Ed.]
- When assembling large systems, keep an eye on mains power
requirements. As a rough guide, amplifiers providing
a total of 2 kW
output power is the maximum that should be supplied through
any one 13 Amp socket outlet of the building's fixed
electrical installation.
- When connecting several speakers to one channel of an
amplifer, take care not to go below the minimum load
impedance catered for
by the amplifier.
- When connecting an unbalanced XLR output of a mixer to
an unbalanced XLR input of an amplifier, be aware that
equipment differs in which pin of the connector is used
as the 'hot' connection. Most British equipment uses
pin 2 for the 'hot', but some older US equipment uses
pin 3.
So, if these types of equipment are being interconnected
a special cable will be needed to make it work.
N.B. Pin 1 is always used as the 'earthy'
(screen) connection.
- When connecting a mic cable to a microphone, be sure that
the XLR is pushed in hard enough for the latch to click
into place (greater pressure is needed for XLRs having a
rubber sealing ring). This is especially important if the
mic is to be removed from its stand by the performer, and/or
is likely to be treated roughly. Plugs falling out of mics
during a performance is not good news.
- When running out audio XLR-to-XLR cables such as mic cables or
feeds to amplifiers, it can be helpful to remember that the
pins of the connectors 'point' in the direction of the
signal flow. So, the end of the cable with a female
connector needs to be at the 'source' end of the run, and
the end with a male connector at the 'destination' end.
N.B. DMX lighting control
cables are the opposite to this!
- When running out an
induction loop
cable, avoid including the stage within the area of the
loop if at all possible. This will reduce the likelihood
of magnetic feedback problems caused by guitar pick-ups
etc. picking up the field from the loop.
(Note, however, that the field is not contained
entirely inside the loop area − there is some
degree of 'overspill' − so the further the loop area from
the stage the better.)
- Wrapping a mic cable a couple of turns around the
vertical pole and boom arm of a mic stand is a good
way to keep the cable tidily in place (when your stand
isn't supplied with the nice clips for that purpose).
However, don't do this (still less use the nice clips!)
on a vocal mic stand unless you're sure that the
vocalist will not want to remove the mic from its stand
and hold it, at some point during the performance.
- When a stereo source is to be connected to a stereo rig,
the ideal would be to use a fully-featured stereo input
channel on the mixer. However, many professional mixers
do not have these (e.g. so-called 'Tape/CD' inputs
often have very limited EQ and Aux Send facilities).
In such cases it may be necessary to use two normal mono
channels of the mixer, one for the Left signal (panned
hard left) and one for the Right signal (panned
hard right). When doing this it is necessary to ensure
that the channels are set-up identically, and that any
subsequent adjustments are made to both of them.
- When a stereo source is to be connected to a mono rig,
it is necessary to decide whether or not the Left and
Right signals must be
summed, or if just one of
them can be used. Often, for recorded material the signals
must be summed (because of hard panning in the recorded
mix), but for stereo instruments just the Left channel
is used. (Many stereo keyboards provide a summed mono
output if only the Left output jack is used − but if
the musician notices this there may be some explaining
to do!) If summing is required, then if the mixer has
an available stereo input with sufficient features this
may be used provided that the Left and Right
busses are summed (e.g. by routing the busses
to the same mix, or by using a Mono output of the mixer).
If a suitable stereo input is not available then
a 'Y-splitter' may be used 'in reverse' to combine the
two signals by direct connection of both of them to a
single mono channel of the mixer, provided that
the signals do not come from very
low-impedance sources
(such as headphone outputs). There is normally no problem
in making a direct connection of line-level Left and
Right outputs of semi-professional or
consumer-type tape and
CD decks.
If there is any doubt about this then it is necessary to
use two mono channels of the mixer, one for the Left
signal and one for the Right. The two channels must be
set-up identically (routing both to the same bus), and
any subsequent adjustments must be made to both of
them.
- Problems (typically intermittent operation, or distortion)
are sometimes experienced on particular mixer channels,
due to oxidation of the normalling contacts of the
Insert jack sockets. (This is more likely to occur if
the contacts have been held separated for a very long
period of time, by a plug remaining inserted.)
Until the socket is replaced, the problem can be solved
by use of an insert lead with its 'send' and 'return'
connectors at the far end linked together, or by use
of a 3-pole jack with its tip and ring terminals
connected together (and no cable attached).
Back to top.
Mixing
(Also see the Intro for Mixing
Engineers page and the Mixing
Facilities page.)
- Always set the channel gain
controls first, using the mixer's built-in
level
indicators. Note, however, that a subsequent large change
to the channel EQ
settings will often change the overall level of the
signal. If an EQ boost
significantly increases the level, it may be necessary
to decrease the setting of the channel gain control
in order to restore the required
headroom (which in turn
may necessitate re-adjustment of the channel fader).
- After the initial
rig check, set up
monitor mixes before the
front-of-house mix, as this enables the total on-stage
sound level to be assessed and controlled early on.
Also, when the band are desperate to start their rehearsal
(because of delays to the set-up schedule, or because
insufficient time has been scheduled for a rehearsal
after the sound-check),
having the monitors set up first will enable the band
to start rehearsing sooner.
- It is common for vocalists to sing louder, and for
musicians to play louder, when the audience are in place
for the event (as compared to how they performed in
the sound-check). So it can be helpful to set the gain
controls a little on the low side during the sound-check,
to accommodate the higher levels expected later.
- It can sometimes be difficult to see which switch-buttons on
a mixer are 'In' and which are 'Out' − especially in
poor lighting conditions. To help with this, some mixers
(e.g. Mackie) have a line drawn around the buttons
(e.g. a white line on grey buttons). If you can see
the line above the mixer panel then the button is 'Out';
if you can't then it's 'In'.
- To avoid overloading
the mixing amp of the desk, when creating mixes start with
the faders at their '−5dB' positions (approx 60% of
travel), then vary them from there − mostly with
reductions. If during sound-check you end up with
any channel faders
exeeeding '+3 dB' (85% of travel), more than 10% of them
exceeding '0 dB' (75% of travel) or more than a quarter
of them exceeding '−5 dB', then increase the main
fader setting and back off all the channel faders by a
corresponding amount. (See also the next proverb.)
- To maintain a satisfactory
signal-to-noise
ratio from the the mixing amp of the desk, if during
sound-check you end up with all the channel faders
at below '−15 dB' (approx 30% of travel), then decrease
the main fader setting and increase all the channel faders
by a corresponding amount.
- Only mix in stereo when there's a real benefit
(e.g. special effects) − and only when
the layout of the venue is such that
the majority of the audience are covered well by both the
Left and Right speakers (this is very rare!).
- Make good use of your mixer's
grouping facilities
(e.g. vocals in one group, drum mics in another,
guitars in another, etc.),
so that the level of these sets of channels in the mix
can be adjusted as a whole, using the group faders.
If your mixer doesn't have a grouping facility, but has Left,
Right and Mono (L+R) master faders, then by panning the
vocals to hard left and the instruments to hard right you
can use the Left and Right master faders as group faders
(in which case of course you use only the Mono output to
drive the
front-of-house
amplifiers).
- The sound throughout a venue will be different at different
locations − and not just louder nearest to the speaker
stacks.
What's more, the sound will often change significantly when
the audience enters − there will be less natural
reverb and
the high frequencies will tend to be reduced towards the
back of the venue as they are absorbed much more by the
audience than are the bass frequencies
(see grazing effect).
So familiarise yourself with the sound in different parts of
the audience area, and during the event be aware that
members of the audience are not all hearing the same sound
as you − especially if you are mixing from the very
back of the venue.
- When setting the individual channel EQs during
sound-check, it can help you to focus on the sound
via the channel to be adjusted if you
first temporarily raise the level of that channel in the
mix. After setting the EQ, restore the channel fader to
its correct position (which may be slightly different to
its previous position, because of the effect of the changed
EQ) before moving on to the next channel.
- One possible way to set
sweep EQ
controls is as follows:
- After setting the Low (LF or
Bass) and High
(HF or Treble) controls
as required, make sure that the cut/boost
control(s) of
the sweep EQ is set flat
(i.e. to '0',
12-o'clock).
- Now listen to the sound and decide what you don't
like about it most of all.
- Next set the cut/boost control of the sweep EQ to
give a large amount of
boost (about 10 to
12 dB) and
set the Q control (if you have
one) to about 2.5.
- Set the Frequency control to minimum, then slowly
rotate it up to its maximum setting, noting the position
that makes what you don't like about the sound (as noted
above) become significantly worse. When you have
swept the whole range, return the Frequency control
to that position, and return the cut/boost control to '0'
(flat), so that the original sound is obtained.
- Now slowly rotate the cut/boost control anti-clockwise
until the best sound is obtained, in conjunction with
adjustments to the Q control (if you have one).
- Finally, make any necessary re-adjustments to the
High and Low controls (and to other sweep EQ controls
on that channel, if it has any others).
- If you have other sweep EQ controls on that channel,
proceed to adjust them in like manner.
- When using a multi-amped system
(i.e. separate amplifiers for
each frequency range, e.g. bass, mid, high),
keep the main
graphic equaliser
flat until the
crossover(s)
have been properly set and the amplifier levels
for each range have been properly balanced.
- When graphic equaliser sliders
have a very small travel
(35 mm or less), an adjustment
of just one or two mm can have a very significant effect
on the sound. Check the 'Range' setting, if there is one
(e.g. ±6 dB or ±12 dB).
- Remember that the FOH graphic
equaliser affects the total mix, so don't be tempted
to adjust it based
on the sound of a single channel (unless it's playing a CD
that you are very familiar with the correct sound of
− in which case first be sure that the channel
EQ is flat!). The only proper way to set up an FOH graphic
is using an audio test CD having test tracks
for each frequency band of the graphic, and checking the sound
level of each band at several places in the venue using a good
quality sound level meter (this takes a long time!) −
Again, first be sure that the EQ is flat on the channel used
for the audio test CD! [Analysis tools are now a popular
alternative method for FOH. Monitor graphics are often best set
up using the ringing out
method − Ed.]
- Treat any comments from the audience judiciously. Enquire where
abouts in the venue the person was located, and remember that
tastes differ from person to person.
- Get to know your mixer well − e.g. which Aux or
Effect sends are pre-fade and which are post-fade,
and whether they are pre-EQ or post-EQ.
- Activate the channel Low Cut
switches on all channels with no wanted deep
bass content − especially
on microphone channels used for vocals, strings, drum
overheads, etc.. This reduces pick-up of unwanted
bass leakage,
handling noise,
etc. on those channels. [However, check that these
switches are not activated on channels with wanted bass
content, such as kick drum,
keys,
bass, etc. − Ed.]
- Keep alert, even when things seem to be going smoothly.
The unexpected can and does happen, and a rapid response
is sometimes required.
- If you are using a channel input for the return from an
effects unit, be very careful not to turn up the relevant
effect send control on that channel. If you do, the resultant
electrical feedback could seriously damage your speakers.
Preferably, mark the control in some way, as a reminder.
- Once a satisfactory mix has been established, and changing
circumstances then require further adjustments to be made,
take care to make only small adjustments (in the first
instance).
All the hard work done during sound-checks and
rehearsals can be rapidly undone by a few large changes
here and there.
- Remember that ambient noise
sources (such as HVAC, or sounds
from outside the
auditorium) may have
a significant impact on the overall
signal-to-noise
ratio perceived by the audience − especially in
low-level applications such as speech amplification.
When the PA system signal-to-noise ratio is satisfactory
but the perceived signal-to-noise ratio is poor, and a
further increase in amplified sound level is not possible
(e.g. because of feedback), steps may have to be
taken to reduce ambient noise levels.
- When using a monitor
mixer, with mixes created using the
auxiliaries, use
post-fade auxiliaries.
This enables the channel faders
to be used as overall level controls for the individual
sources, allowing convenient and rapid adjustment of a
source in all the mixes simultaneously when required
(e.g. due to feedback or a sudden change in source
level).
- When using a monitor mixer, patch
graphic equalisers
into the inserts of the
mixer outputs (usually the auxiliary
sends) rather than
routing
the outputs via the graphic equalisers. This allows
the effect of the appropriate graphic equaliser to be
taken into account when monitoring a particular output
using its AFL (but check that
the AFL monitors the signal post-insert!).
- When using a monitor mixer, if at all possible use a
listen wedge that
is identical to the monitors being used by the
performers, so that you get the best possible match to
the sound that they hear from their monitors.
- When playing pre-recorded material that is routed
via pre-fade
auxes (e.g. to stage monitors) as well as
via the channel fader, remember that if the
track needs to be manually faded out then you must
fade down the relevant aux
send(s) as well as the
fader − otherwise even with the fader fully
down the audience will probably still hear the material
via the monitors. (In such cases, consider
having the relevant aux send on that channel switched
to post-fade, if your
desk has that facility.) Obviously the same applies
to manual fade-ins.
Back to top.
Amplifiers
(Also see the
Amps & Speakers page.)
- Be sure that amplifiers have an adequate output power rating
−
at least 30% above the power input that the speakers require
in order to achieve the desired sound level − to maintain
headroom on signal peaks.
But don't misuse the spare power by over-driving the
speakers.
- Remember that the maximum output power that can be obtained
from a particular channel of an amplifier is not a fixed value
− it depends on the overall
impedance of the
speakers that are connected to that channel.
- Before switching on the amplifiers, switch on mixers,
graphics, etc., and check that the amplifier level
controls are set at minimum. Likewise, before switching
off any other equipment set the amplifier level
controls to minimum and switch off the amplifiers.
[For more detailed information on this, see
Switch
on/off procedure − Ed.]
- When using a multi-amped system
(i.e. separate amplifiers for each frequency range,
e.g. bass, mid, high), be sure that the
main graphic equaliser
is flat before starting to
balance the amplifier levels for each range. The only
proper way to balance the amp levels is to use an
analysis system or to use an audio
test CD having test tracks for each frequency range,
and check the sound levels at several places in the
venue using a good quality sound level meter. (First be
sure that the EQ is flat on the channel used for the
audio test CD!)
- Never connect a speaker output of an amplifier to anything
other than a speaker. Doing so can cause all kinds of
expensive damage.
Back to top.
Speakers
(Also see the
Amps & Speakers page.)
- In terms of sound quality, this is the part of the system
that will make the most difference (closely followed by
microphones), so don't compromise on choice. It isn't
possible to properly compensate for poor quality speakers
by using
equalisation.
- When choosing speakers, compare the
sensitivity figures.
This is a guide to how much
sound level
you will get from
the speaker for each watt
of power input from the amplifier,
and can vary hugely between different types of speaker.
Remember, however, that the easiest way for the speaker
manufacturer to achieve an impressive sensitivity figure
is to compromise on sound quality, so be sure to check
that too.
- To get the best out of your speakers, be sure that they are
at the correct height for the situation are that they are
positioned and angled correctly. This can make a very
significant difference to the quality of the sound
perceived by the audience! For example, locating speakers
inward from the side walls, and/or angling them
slightly inwards towards the centre of the room, can help
to reduce troublesome reflections from the side walls
(especially in long, narrow rooms). And raising the height
of the speakers and angling them slightly downwards can
help to reduce the difference in sound level between the
front and back of the room. (See also the next tip.)
- When setting the position and angle of
front-of-house speakers,
use the 'line of sight' method to help with the alignment
of the high-mid
cabs and HF horns.
This is especially helpful to get an initial position,
before the system is ready to be switched on and
listening tests done.
First stand behind (or under) the speaker to judge what
area it is covering, and make adjustments to its
position and angle as necessary.
Then walk around the listening area, looking at the relevant
speakers − you should be able to see into the speaker horns.
(Remember to take into account any obstacles that might
not yet be in place, such as a standing or dancing audience.)
These methods work because it is the high audio frequencies
that carry the intelligibility and clarity of the sound,
and these travel in substantially straight lines, just
like light.
- If you are connecting speakers of different impedance
to the same amplifer, the speakers having the highest
impedance will take the smallest amount of power from
the amplifier (and will therefore probably produce the
least sound).
- Configure the speaker system according to the
programme
material. Powerful bass bins are not required for
reproduction of speech, or of music with minimal bass
content.
- When positioning monitor speakers close to microphones,
take account of the
polar pattern
of the microphone in order to ensure minimum pick-up
of the monitor sound by the microphone, and so reduce
feedback problems.
For cardioids,
the monitor should be on the rear axis
of the mic, i.e. directly behind it.
For super-cardioids
use two monitors, each at
an angle of 55 degrees from the rear axis.
For hyper-cardioids
the two monitors should each be at
an angle of 70 degrees from the rear axis.
Back to top.
Cables
- For ease of recognition, put similar markings on
cables of the same type
(mic cables, speaker cables, instrument cables, etc.),
and store similar types together. They can be marked at the
ends with coloured tape, with clip-on identification rings,
or the cables themselves could be of a different colour.
- Don't coil cables by wrapping them around your arm − this
stresses the cable and puts a twist in it at each
turn of the coil.
- Releaseable cable ties and
Velcro®
ties are a real boon. Use them around
cables in storage or transit to prevent them becoming
tangled with each other; use them on-stage to keep coiled
excess cable lengths neat and tidy. 200 mm is a good length
to use for most cables. For bulkier coils (such as speaker
cables), two of these ties can simply be linked together
to make one (nearly) twice as long.
- If you plug together the two ends of XLR-XLR cables
as soon as you have coiled it for storage or transit,
the ends can't fall between the turns of the coil and
create knots.
- If a cable is suspected of being faulty, don't put it back
in the box with the others, to be taken out again and be
used another time. Put it separately (preferably marked in
some obvious way) until it has been checked and repaired.
- Cable faults are often intermittent, so if a cable seems to
be faulty and then seems OK again, mark it as suspect and
don't use it until it has been fully checked out −
otherwise it may unexpectedly fail again during use.
- Always use proper speaker cables rated for the job − don't
use instrument jack-to-jack cables or microphone XLR-to-XLR
cables, as both of these can be damaged by the high current
and voltage of speaker signals.
- It's worth investing in good quality cables − but
the hyper-expensive types rarely give much added benefit.
Manufacturers well-known for the quality of their cables
include Belden,
Canare,
Klotz and
Van Damme (the links
are to their websites, and open in a new window).
- Check mains cables frequently for signs of damage, and get
them promptly and properly repaired or replaced.
- When removing cables that have been
gaffer-taped to the
floor, don't pull up the cable from the floor with the tape
still attached to the cable. Rather, while pulling the tape
from the cable with one hand, hold the adjacent loose part of
the cable down on the floor with the other hand.
This will prevent the edges of the tape
curling around the underside of the cable − if the sticky
sides touch they are almost impossible to get apart again
and the tape will require time-consuming removal from the
cable afterwards by tearing or cutting, with a risk of
damage to the cable.
- In large systems, it can be helpful in tracing cables
(when you need to fix a problem or to make changes)
if all cables
have a unique reference number at both ends. Clip-on
numbered plastic rings are available for this purpose.
- Don't use XLR cables that have the shell of the connectors
connected to the cable screen (pin 1). This avoids the
possibility of
earth-loop problems
being caused by the
connectors at cable joints coming into contact with
each other, or with adjacent metalwork.
- When wiring XLR connectors to make balanced cables, the
name 'XLR' can be used as a mnemonic for which pin is
which: pin 1 = X = Earth,
pin 2 = L = Live (hot),
pin 3 = R = Return (cold).
- The mnemonic 'Tip-To, Ring-Return' can be used to help
remember the (most common) wiring of mixer
TRS
insert jacks. So, the signal
is fed To the effect unit via the Tip connection, and it
Returns to the mixer via the Ring connection.
- When making cables to connect from a
3-pole (stereo) mini-jack
output of a laptop, MP3 player, etc., it can be
useful to wire a pair of resistors into the
connector(s)
at the other (i.e. destination) end of the cable.
This avoids the possibility of damage to the laptop
or player if the hot connections of the destination end
get shorted to earth while the mini-jack is plugged
into a headphone output. (Such a short is only really
a possibility if the destination end is a jack
connector). Wire a
1 kilohm
resistor in
series with
the Left hot connection, and another in series with
the Right hot connection. This also provides
protection against
damage, or current-overload distortion, due to
shorting Left and Right headphone outputs together,
such as happens when the stereo output is wired
into a single mono connector at the far end of the
cable. Or likewise if the Left and Right signals
are cabled into two separate
mono connectors, which subsequently get plugged
into a pair of commoned inputs (such as a pair of
input sockets on a single channel of a DI box).
- When doing special things inside connectors, as
suggested in the previous entry, it's wise to label
the cable accordingly, to avoid confusion later.
(Also because such cables may be indicated as faulty
by a cable tester, even though they're wired as
intended.)
- Keep all cabling well clear of transformer power
supply units (whether of the plug-in or in-line types),
as the stray magnetic field from the transformer can
induce a hum current into the cable conductors.
Even excess lengths of mains power cables should
not be located close to such power units, as a hum
current can be induced into the earth conductor
of the power cables − this is more likely to
cause a problem if you have any
unbalanced
signal interconnections. Preferably, route all
3-core
mains cables directly away from power supply units.
- When packing away bodypack
units, don't wrap the mic/earphone cable around the
bodypack. These thin cables are very easily damaged,
and repeated bending of the same points along the cable
around the corners of the bodypack can cause problems
to occur at those points.
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This page last updated 27-Dec-2010.
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