Back to Archive

Home
About Us
Join the SIG
Join In
Newsletter
News & Events
Gallery
Bulletin Board
Links

Copyright ©
2004-2007 British
Mensa. The Mensa logo
is a registered
trademark of Mensa International Limited,
all rights reserved.
Mensa does
not hold any opinion
or have, or express,
any political or
religious views.

Day 1 - at the beginning of February, I flew to Nice with Easyjet from Luton. I got the local bus from the airport to the train station, and spent one night in one of the many cheap hotels there (Hotel Mono 179FF with shower + 20FF for TV + 22FF breakfast - rooms without shower or TV available for 129FF).

Day 2 - after a quick walk along the seafront, I took the train to Marseilles (145FF). A very preriy run along the shore, then past red sandstone cliffs and hills, taking about 2hrs 30 min. The meal in the bar on the train was of only modest quality. In Marseilles, the tourist office at the station was able (no charge) to find me a modest hotel near the station (the Hotel Lutetia 220FF+3SFF for breakfast - a very nice room and pleasant staff although some places were booked up due to conferences. The station is at the head of a flight of about 100 steps, giving splendid views over the city. But a side road (my luggage is on wheels) led quickly to the hotel. Marseilles is a very multi-racial city, and tends more to industry than tourism. I had a lovely meal by the old port with fish dishes, including very fancy fish-soup and a main course of grouper.

Day 3 - I walked up to the Grobet-Labadij museum (10FF), a lovely old house containing beautiful sculpture, paintings, furniture, musical instruments and tapestries, all well labelled. Across the road was the Longchamps Palace, built around a handsome fountain and decorative stairs, and containing the Fine Arts museum, and that of Natural History. I looked into the fine arts museum, which did not have the rooms containing the better works open, just some very large paintings of moderate quality. The top of the stairs opened into Longchamps Park, very pleasant to wander through to a modest little restaurant offering guinea-fowl with salsify. In the afternoon, I tried to visit the Roman docks museum and the Old Marseilles museum, but both were closed for improvements (a common problem out of season) so I walked on to the old fort of St. Jean, then took a little ferry for just 3FF across the old port and continued wandering around the old port area till evening.

Day 4 - I bought an all-day ticket for city public transport (25FF). A trolley bus (No.81) took me back to the fine arts museum to see the part that hadn't been open the previous day. Some very nice paintings were now visible. Bus 83 then carried me to the beach, where I found a very reasonable lunch at a self service cafeteria attached to a `Casino' supermarket. (These are in all the main towns of the Cote d'Azur). On out of town to Mondragon, where an infrequent bus (No.l9) with a very country feel took me on to Callelongue. Wonderful cliff top coastal views. There is no road on from Callelongue, but footpaths go on into dramatic countryside. A very pretty path led me back over the hills to Mandragon. I got a bit lost because I did not realise how high the proper path went, but had no real problems. The area is out-of bounds, due to forest fire problems, in July and August, and it would be unwise to explore too far in bad weather. It is very wild country, considering how close it is to a big city. I was just in time to get the bus back to Notre Dame du Garde, a fairly modern church of no great beauty, but at a high point in central Marseilles, with fantastic views over the city. Another restaurant at the old port provided me with bouillabaisse, a Marseilles speciality, and very delicious.

Day 5 - I went back to the museum of old Marseilles, where, although it was closed, one could see the remains of the Roman city through the railings. I then spent some time wandering through the old `Panier' district, where I saw Vielle Charite, a handsome building, originally a workhouse, with a fine chapel, and now containing various museums and exhibitions. Also the Hotel Dieu, with a fine exterior, which is and has long been the local hospital. It was pleasant to lunch on duck outside in the Place Lenche, served by an ancient, charming waiter. I continued wandering through the district till evening. The `Panier' district is a mixture of mediaeval buildings and German-built post-war stuff. During the war, part of this district was such an impenetrable strong-hold of the resistance, that the Nazis turned out 20,000 people, and blew up their homes, all on one day.

Day 6 - I took the boat (40FF return) to Chateau d'If (the fictional prison of The Count of Monte Cristo and of The Man in the Iron Mask). The island contains little but the chateau (25FF admission with a good exhibition of the real and fictional history) but has some splendid views back to the city, of the coast, and the nearby Ile Frioul, to which the boat will also take you, for an extra charge. After lunching by the old port, I revisited la Vielle Charite to see the unusual oval chapel, and enter the archaeology museum, with some great exhibits, well displayed and described.

Day 7 - a smooth train ride took me to Orange, where I stayed at Hotel Louvre (250FF). I wondered after if the Hotel de la Gare would have been a better choice. I visited the splendid Roman theatre (30FF - including the small museum opposite, mostly closed for renovation at this time). Then I climbed the hill behind the seating, into which it is built, to find a pleasant park, and a small ruined chateau. Afterwards I walked North to find the famous and splendid Roman arch. Dinner at the hotel of skate or ray.

Day 8 - after another visit to the hill behind the theatre, a walk along back roads and paths toward Camaret. Although I didn't reach it, I had a nice walk by the Rhone, found the old road to Serignan, and saw a fine sunset on the way back.

Day 9 - a short train trip, changing at Avignon, got me to Tarascon. A shortage of accommodation, due to a trade fair, and some hotels 'taking their annual vacation, left me at the Hotel Viaduc (130FF - with shower, but no phone or TV) and run by a nice old couple. I visited the large castle by the river in the centre of town (32FF). It belonged to Good King Rene, count of Provence, before Provence was absorbed into France. For centuries after that it was a prison. It has some fine Flemish tapestries showing Roman history. There is also some curious graffiti, some done by British sailors imprisoned there in the Napoleonic wars. There are great views from the top, including the ruined castle of Beaucaire, facing Tarascon across the Rhone, once the frontier between France and Provence. Next to the castle is the grand old church of St. Marthe containing her tomb and paintings of her victory over the monster, Tarasque. There are some nice old streets, city walls and gates and a handsome mediaeval Hotel de Ville.

Day 10 - the market was today (Tuesday) so I enjoyed exploring it this morning and visited St. Jaques church. I walked across the bridge, enjoying fine views of both cities and castles to Beaucaire. Surprisingly there has been a port there since most ancient times, and there was one of the largest fairs in Europe here till the 19th century. The tourist office had a leaflet which gave a walk visiting most of the historic points of the old town. I had forgotten that the castle park and museum were closed on Tuesdays, so I had a walk along the banks of the Rhone, and another wander through old Tarascon.

Day 11 - a country bus took me to St.Remy-en-Provence. It was market-day here today. In the central square (Place Republique) I found the hotel Ville Verte (225FF + 38FF breakfast). A very old, quiet building and my large bedroom had a huge wardrobe and bed with a carved wooden headboard at least 6 ft across. Lunch in an amusing little cafe `Le Monocle' with every wall covered in posters and old records as placemats. The simple fixed menu was 38FF + 13 for wine and 10 for coffee. After lunch a walk south led me to a very beautiful lake. I also found the mental hospital (still in use) where Van Gogh spent the last year of his lifey based in an ancient monastery with a fine cloister open to the public. Dinner at another small restaurant of tripe was 55FF and 15 for wine.

Day 12 - in the morning I visited the not very exciting archaeological museum in the old town. I got a twin ticket with the site of the ancient Roman city of Glanum, just south of St.Remy, for 36FF (the museum alone would have been 15FF). I then went to Glanum and found it closed temporarily for improvements. Neither the site, nor the museum would give me back the difference, so I have a free ticket to the Glanum site, if anyone is visiting St.Remy this year. It looks and sounds quite an impressive archaeological site. Contact VISA and I'll send it to you. I had bought a sandwich in a boulangerie in St.Remy, which I ate just outside the archaeological site by Les Antiques, a memorial to the heirs of Augustus Caesar, and a victory arch, both on public land.

I had picked up a leaflet at the tourist office, showing some walks through the Alpilles. I followed a 15 km walk from here, which led down a ladder through a hole in limestone rock to the lake previously visited, up a forested valley past some llamas to a ridgeway walk with fantastic views of the weird scenery of the Val d'Enfer (valley of hell), and on to the small hill-top village of Les Baux. Time permitted only a short look round the inhabited village, touristy but picturesque, and with great views. I understand that the abandoned chateau and upper village are of great interest. There were no buses back to St.Remy in the winter, but the tourist office was able to organise a taxi to take me back for 85FF. This short drive also had spectacular scenery.

Day 13 - I caught a bus from St.Remy to Avignon, passing a fine castle at Chateau Reynard. From Avignon, I went on to Villeneuve-Les-Avignon, across the river, by bus 1 1. I found many hotels were closed at this season, so had to settle for the somewhat dearer Hotel 1'Atelier (290FF). Several of the historic monuments were closed all February, but I visited the huge Fort St.Andre, with two great towers at the gate, and had a wander around the old town.

Day 14 - after a quick glance at the small market in Villeneuve, I took the local bus to Avignon. There was a large market, mainly food, by the city gate. 15 minutes by train saw me in Tarascon, and after a short walk across the bridge, I reached the castle at Beaucaire, which had been closed on my previous visit. There is a fine park in the lower part of the castle ruins, a small museum, with Roman remains. I was the only visitor to the museum during my tour. The upper part of the castle is fenced off, and set aside for a falconry exhibition, open only in the summer. After another look at the old town af Beaucaire, I caught a bus by the port, which wandered back to Avignon, through small villages, two of which had castles. And so back to Villeneuve.

Day 15 - this morning I visited Chartreuse Abbey, a huge monument, part now on exhibit, part now used for arts and entertainment learning. There were many excellent notices all over the exhibition explaining the original use of the buildings, in English, among other languages. After lunch, I visited the Abbey St. Andre in the fort, with an ancient church and fine gardens with spectacular views. A minor excitement was a snake disturbing the peace at the gate of the abbey.

Day 16 - I moved on by bus to Aix-en-Provence, a 2 hour trip. The bus station appears to be in something of a wasteland, but is actually quite near the historic centre. I found a simple hotel (Hotel les Arts) not far from the centre, with a rather basic room (TV, phone & shower, but very little space for clothes) at 195FF + 25FF for breakfast payable in advance. After a simple salad lunch at the neighbouring Restaurant Salad, I spent the afternoon wandering around the old town. I saw many historic buildings, old fountains in pretty squares and handsome churches. I noted the position of two of the fine museums of Aix, though these are closed on Mondays, as are many museums in France. In the evening, I found a very nice little place, the Restaurant Carillon, with a 4 course menu for S9FF and apichet of wine for 8FF. A peculiarity of this place was that they preferred one to choose each course as one went along. I had all subsequent evening meals in Aix there.

Day 17 - the ancient Cathedral St-Sauveur contains tapestries that were in Canterbury Cathedral, until an Aix church official bought them from Cromwell's government. There are also fine mediaeval paintings. Lunch at the Place Richelme, in one of the restaurants that expand into the square as the flower market clears away. A leaflet from the tourist offce gave ideas for routes to explore this fine city, dating back to Roman foundations as a spa town. The baths were closed for renovation, but some Roman remains could be seen from the road. Neighbouring Place Vendome was a pretty park. The Pavillion de Vendome is a handsome town chateau, containing a museum, closed on Tuesdays.

Day 18 - wasted this morning at the launderette next to the hotel. After lunch, I visited the Museum Granet with archaeology in the basement, including material from the nearby pre-Roman site of Oppidum, and paintings on the 1st floor, a mixed bag, but including some fine work by local boy, Cezanne. Some museums, including the Arnaud, of doubtful quality, and the tapestry museum, of good repute, were closed for restoration.

Day 19 - I got into the chateau Vendome (10FF) this morning, and also visited the museum of old Aix (15FF), with amusing marionettes. Both were small but interesting. After lunch back outside in the square, I took the local bus to the Celtic pre-Roman city of Oppidum, above and just outside Aix. This was conquered and destroyed by the Romans, when they founded Aix. It was a beautiful, quiet place with great views over Aix, and of Montagne Sainte-Victoire, much painted by Cezanne. A guide explained (in French, but at no charge) the remains, including olive presses, ovens and a forge. On the way back, the bus passed the Atelier Cezanne (his workshop). I was too mean to spring the 25FF admission, but walked on downhill, looking at the pleasant views over Aix. Looked in on the cathedral again, and had a quick glance at the Cite de Livre and Parc Jourdan.

Day 20 - I caught the train from Aix to Nice, changing at Marseilles, where I had a nice lunch at the station buffet. I had reserved a seat on the second train, and I and my fellow passengers were confused to find most of the seats had been double-booked. When staff arrived, they were able to explain that there were 2 coach 23's on this train - to general amusement. I returned to Hotel Mono to stay in Nice for the period of the Carnival.

Day 21 - this morning, I visited the Contemporary Arts Museum, picking up a 40FF pass, valid for 1 week for access to 12 of Nice's museums. I was not enormously impressed by this museum, but for those who like the avant-garde, it is doubtless very interesting. In the afternoon, I paid 50FF to enter the Promenade des Anglais, blocked off for the `Battle of the Flowers'. Quite amusing floats of flowers, and very pretty, if rather chilly, girls throwing flowers into the watching crowds. In the evening, I watched a carnival procession in the Avenue Jean Medecin. This was free, with the traditional type of float, based on the circus theme. Enormous amounts of silly string whizzed among the crowds.

Day 22 - this morning, I took the short, pretty train ride to Menton, on the Italian frontier for the `Fete du Citron'. The train was full, but I noted Villefranche and Beaulieu for later visits. Menton is an ancient small town climbing a mountain-side from the seashore, with steep stairs crossed by semi-pedestrian streets, often running under old houses. The restaurants were pretty full, and the weather turned to torrential rain, the first day of really bad weather on this holiday, but I found a place which served a fixed menu with a nice paella, under a canopy, but outside in a small square, for 75FF. After lunch 50FF admitted me to the streets where a procession of floats built primarily of oranges and lemons, and interspersed with majorettes and bands went by in rather cold, damp conditions. The theme was `Tintin', the Belgian cartoon character. There was also an exhibition in the gardens on the same theme for an extra 30FF, but given the weather, I didn't bother. Instead, I warmed up by visiting a free exhibition of orchids in the town hall. As the sun came out, I explored the old town, visiting the old church, and the cemetery at the top of a hill, with splendid views, and gravestones inscribed in French, Italian, Russian and English. The harbour was also very pretty.

Day 23 - in the morning, I took a long walk along the front at Nice, then returned by bus 24 to the station. I had bought a carnet of 10 bus tickets for Nice, but this was not as good a bargain as I had first thought - the discount was only 15%. 8FF per ticket, or 68FF for 10. I had lunch at the self service Casino Cafeteria by the station. Good value for Nice, but not atmospheric.
After lunch, by train to Villefranche, to watch a sea-battle of flowers. After watching the small boats passing, very nicely decorated with flowers, I wandered the streets of this old port town, visited the fair in the town square and the castle above the port. Like Menton, it had stepped and subterranean streets. A bus took me back to old Nice, the old streets of which are well worth exploring.

Day 24 (Mardi Gras) - In the morning, I reached the old port of Nice by bus, had a wander round here and the old city, where I found lunch, before climbing up to the chateau, of which nothing remains, though there are some bits left by the Romans, and spectacular views in all directions. A lift brought me down to the seafront, and I returned to enjoy the afternoon carnival. In the evening, there were splendid illuminations and I visited some fine modern fountains.

Day 25 - bus 15 took me to Cimiez, a suburb high above much of Nice. Here there was a good archaeological museum and fine site, with huge Roman baths, all well explained in a free English leaflet from the museum. Nearby is the monastery, with a small free rather boring museum and a fine church, which demands a supply of 2FF coins to illuminate the splendid mediaeval paintings. It has lovely gardens with great views over Nice.

Lunch was a sandwich in a public park filled with olive trees. Just beyond was the Matisse museum. The art was not much to my taste, but I liked tbe older part of the building. Walking down from Cimiez, I passed the Chagall museum. As I had visited it on a previous visit to Nice, and it was not on my pass, I skipped it this time and took a bus on to old Nice for the lovely old Lascaris Palace, with reminders of the Italian heritage of Nice. The top floor was being turned into a folk museum. Many of the exhibits were in place, but labelling had not been completed.

Day 26 - a short train trip reached Cagnes-sur-Mer, from which it is no great walk to Haut-de-Cagnes for the chateau. They have the famous Solidor paintings here, but they were not on show on this occasion, as they were showing an exhibition by a modern artist. This disappointment was made up for by fine views, painted ceilings and a huge olive press.

After lunch in the lower town, I went on by bus to Vence. A lovely mediaeval towm, with cathedral, city walls, pedestrian streets and squares. A leaflet from the tourist office enabled me to find all the main sights. On the way back to Nice, I stopped briefly at St.Paul-de-Vence. Very pretty, very touristy and with very grand expensive art galleries. As I waited for the bus to Nice, 1 witnessed a minor drama. A horse bearing a boy of about 14 came galloping, bareback up the busy main road. At the hairpin bend, just by the bus stop, the horse skidded on the polished pavement, and stumbled, with the boy falling to the hard pavement. He was hurt and local people immediately came to his help. The horse recovered and returned independently to his stable. Our bus came, and followed the horse till it turned off the road to its stable.

Day 27 - a grand circular tour by train today. First to Ventimiglia in Italy along the very dramatic coastline. Market-day was in full progress, and great fun. I had a simple picnic on the rather tatty beach. Ventimiglia is not the prettiest of towns. Although all prices were in lira, francs were accepted at an honest exchange rate.

A very pretty run up through the mountains to Breil, back in France, in an uncrowded one-coach train. Breil was lovely, with old rather battered churches looking across a lake. I had a short walk through some of the nearby countryside. This would be a good base for a walking holiday, and the tourist office has the necessary information. Signposts indicated several interesting walks into the mountains. Breil is at 285 meters above sea-level and the station is a little out of town.

I continued to Tende at 820 metres, with the station on the edge of town, and train times allowed just 40 minutes here. I had just time to admire views of snow-clad rnountains, and dash along an old road between and under old houses to an attractive and interesting cathedral. The train back to Nice was very crowded, as the carriage was completely reserved, and some passengers were loaded with ski equipment. The return was by the same route as far as Breil, where many passengers changed to the Ventimiglia train, while we continued through the mountains to Nice, arriving a little after dark. Although I crossed between France and Italy several times today, no-one checked anybody for passports, and although there were passport barriers and offices, they were disused.

Day 28 - this morning, I went by city bus to the Naif Art museum. Fabron is the nearest bus stop. The door was locked, but was opened when I rattled it. The paintings were of moderate quality, but were amusing. By bus back to the Fine Arts museum, which had free entry today, and larger, nicer paintings, mainly l9th and early 20th century. After lunch, I visited the somewhat unimpressive Mossa gallery. The nearby former Dufy gallery is now called Plonchette and shows modern photos. I found I could watch another battle of flowers free from just in front of the Casino Ruhl. In the evening, another carnival procession took place, with much fun and jollity.

Last day - my flight was not till the aftemoon, so I walked down to the Massena museum, also free today, with plastic cards in English describing the interesting exhibits. These included local history and art, especially pottery, and the exploits of Napoleon and Garibaldi. Like several of the museums, it had temporary exhibitions relating to the carnival theme of the circus. Again, like other museums, it was set in pleasant gardens, where I sat for a while, before returning to the hotel to settle up (1997FF for 10 nights B&B) and catching the 23 city bus to the airport. And so a comfortable flight, with good views of the Riviera and Alps, returned me to England.

First published in VISA issues 29-30 (summer / autumn 1998)