Cardiff Records, Volume V, Chapter VI
REMINISCENCES OF OLD INHABITANTS
Transcribed by Kevin H. Sewell 1996
email: pat.sewell@btopenworld.com
www: http://www.btinternet.com/~pat.sewell/
Last Modified: 19 April 1996
WILLIAM LUKE EVANS
Mr. William Luke Evans, who is eighty-four years of age, was for
many years in the service of the Corporation as Inspector of Weights and
Measures. He is noted for his long memory and for his intimate knowledge
of Old Cardiff. He has obligingly supplied me with the following notes
of his recollections, in response to enquiries made of him from time to
time during the past ten years. Mr. Evans says :-
"I was a regular Juryman of Lord Bute's Court Leet. It had cognizance
of matters affecting Weights and Measures, the Pounds and Roath Brook, and
made Presentments thereon. It used to be held in May and November, but
now in October, for the Manors of Llystalybont and Roath Dogfield. Mr.
John Stuart CORBETT is the Steward. The Pound and the Brook were presented
down to quite recent years. The Jury of twelve were sworn in, and the names
entered. A fine was payable to the Lord on the death of any freeholder
of the manor being presented. There was an annual dinner for the Jury,
at which punch was drunk.
"I remember the last Aletaster of Cardiff. His name was Edward PHILPOT,
and his nickname 'Toby Philpot.' I well remember hearing him say to someone
with whom he was talking in the street : 'Well, I must go and see what sort
of ale they have got at the Glove and Shears.'
"One day coming out of church, we saw a hare bolt out of the Blue Bell.
We chased it into the Cardiff Arms yard, where it was caught. We had it
for dinner a few days afterwards.
"The old gabled house in Saint Mary Street, at the north corner of
Wharton Street, was called the Armoury. It was the residence of Capt. Jonathan
HOWELLS, Adjutant of the Royal Glamorganshire Militia, and a great friend
of the late Lord Bute[1], with whom he was constanly seen walking arm-in-arm.
Lord Bute came up from London to attend his funeral. There were two steps
up to the front door, and a railing along the front of the house. The headquarters
of the regiment were kept there. I saw Capt. Howell's funeral, which was
a very imposing one.
"In 1882, when making the alterations in the old gas testing room,
for depositing the compies of the Imperial Standards, I forced open what
I thought to be a similar door to the one in the present Weights and Measures
Office, and found it was an arched compartment, containing some hundreds
of the old Acts of Parliament, and other documents. I at once communicated
with theTown Clerk, and they were dried and overhauled. They were all covered
with a very thick coating of mildew. The belonged to the old Town Hall[2].
"I was at the opening of the Saint Mary Street Market in 1835, when
the Church Street Arcade (or Old Arcade) was opened to the public, and I
have never known it closed from the above date to the present time[3].
There were six cottages, three on each side of the avenue, from time to
time occupied by many persons whom I knew; amongst others: Philip JONES,
basket-maker, and his son of the same name, now (1882) a pensioner of the
Post Office; William DAVID, shoemaker; Samuel MARKS, dyer; Julia MARKS,
tobacconist; Mary ROWLANDS and Jane ELLIS, dressmakers.
"Thirty years ago the General Post Office was situate in Church Street,
where BOYLE & Co's, the bootmakers' now is; and a letter-box and entrance
to the Sorting Department were inside the Arcade, about 20 feet from the
front pavement, open to the public day and night without let or hindrance
from anyone.
"In addition to the ordinary days for holding the markets, namely Wednesdays
and Saturdays, there have been extra markets held whenever Christmas fell
in the latter part of the week.
"This property originally belonged to the great-grandsire[4] of the
owner[5] of Penllyne Castle, near Cowbridge. The family residence was the
house now occupied by Mr. DOBBIN, stationer[6], and was connected by a long
garden with Trinity Street. This house was called the Corner House. Its
then occupant was always called 'the Squire,' and is so now by the few old
inhabitants remaining.
"The mansion was in those days noted for having good port wine in wood,
and the Squire no doubt had his share of it. His end fast approaching,
his medical attendant, Dr. REECE (grandfather of our present Coroner) intimated
to the old gentleman that he was afraid he should have to tap him, as dropsy
had set in. The Squire replied: 'Well, Doctor, if you must, you must.
But, you know, there never was a cask tapped in the Corner House that lasted
very long.' In a few days all was over with the Squire.
"Shortly afterwards the old house was converted into a Bank by Msessrs.
GUEST & Co., of London and Dowlais. Mr. Thomas Revel GUEST[7], the
first Mayor of Cardiff, was the managing partner. He was a noted preacher
amongst the Wesleyan Methodists, and occasionally held forth in the Wesley
Chapel, Church Street, situate where Mr. John HIBBERT's shop is now.
"Where the Town Hall stands I remember a 300 ton brig, called the "William
Rugg," built and launched. She was owned by William RUGG, ironmonger,
of Duke Street. The people on board of her were so excited, and rocked
her to such an extent, that she turned on her side and the live cargo were
precipitated into the tidal water. From the windows of the Council Chamber
only one house could then have been seen right away to Leckwith and Cogan
Pill, namely, the Grange Farm.
"The tidal harbour of Cardiff was situate where Westgate Street now
stands. Quay Street was the entrance to the shipping, where passengers
were taken on board the market-boats bound for Bristol. If these had started,
the last place for shipment was the Golate, the lane between the Queen's
Hotel and the South Wales Daily News offices. Hence its present
name.
"The Bonded Stores of the harbour were situate on the Quay Wall in
Westgate Street, and still exist, being now occupied by Mr. Alderman FULTON[8].
Over them was the Cardiff Theatre. An amusing incident occurred one night
when the play of "Pizarro" was being performed there. A death
scene was enacted, including a Requiem Mass with all its attendant solemnity,
pomp and music. Suddenly, the gallery gave way with a loud crash, cauing
great excitment. The corpse, with equal suddenness, jumped up in its sitting[9],
the face floured and cork-burnt, and exclaimed in a stentorian voice: 'I
hope to God there is no danger!' On being assured that the danger wsa over,
the body fell back into the horizontal position, awaiting burial, and the
play proceeded.
"Where the Fire Engine House is now, there was a limekiln. The stones
were brought in vessels from Aberthaw and burnt into lime - not for building
purposes (as there was little or no building going on) but for agricultural
use.
"The Custom House of the Port was in Saint Mary Street, near Councillor
JOTHAM's shop. The Collector resided where the Central Coffee Tavern is
[1890], and the Comptroller near Alderman Dr. JONES' residence in Crockherbtown[10].
"I remember two persons (whose names I must not repeat) being placed
in the stocks, which were put up where High Street, Church Street, Saint
Mary Street and Quay Street converge, and near where the old Russian gun[11]
stood for many years. The stocks were in the custody of David EVANS, Head
Constable; who was also the landlord of the Cardiff Boat inn in Quay Street,
adjacent to the then tidal port of Cardiff. When not in use, the stocks
were kept in the Corn Market, under the old Town Hall. Whether they were
burnt with the other old timber, when that building was pulled down in 1861,
by the late Mr. Alderman Daniel JONES who purchased the materials for £100,
I cannot say; but when looking under the new Town Hall, some years since,
for the aforesaid instrument of punishment, we found the old Town Hall clock
and bell. The latter was erected over the present Police Station as a fire-alarm;
but becoming cracked, was replaced by a new one[12]. The stocks consisted
of two planks of timber on edge, with semicircular holes in each, an iron
hinge at one end, and a lock and key the other.
"I can remember a man being tied to a cart's tail, for some heinous
offence, and dragged and flogged through the market held in the High Street.
"Under the old Town Hall in High Street was the prison for small debtors.
Its iron-barred window faced the house occupied by Dr. REECE - now the
furniture shop, No. 14 High Street, tenanted by Messrs. WILLIAMS & Co.
There was a well in the middle of High Street, opposite Lloyd's Bank (the
old Brecon Bank). The pump was situate under one of the flights of steps
which led up to the Assize Court in the Town Hall, and was exactly opposite
the front door of Messrs. COLEMAN's, chemists.
"The Dobbin Pits Farm was situate at the extreme end of Park Place
(Dobbinpits Road), near the Cathays Park. A stile led from the farmyard
into the Park. This land, being so near the town, was convenient for the
deposit of soil; there being, in years gone by, no sub-drainage in the Borough.
"Plwca Lane, or Plwca Alai, is the thoroughfare now called Castle Road,
which extends from Longcross to Crwys Bychan. Plwca means dirty, wet, uncultivated
land. Rushes originally grew hard by the lane, and mats were made of them,
and sold in the town for domestic purposes. Alai means an alley[13]. Sixty-five
years ago (1830) the habitations in Plwca Lane consisted of Roath Castle
and six small cottages in two fields now the site of James' Square[14].
Roath Castle belonged to Mr. John Mathews RICHARDS, grandfather of Mrs.
MACKINTOSH. Her father, Mr. RICHARDS, on returning from Cardiff, was in
the habit of galloping his horse all the way from Newport Road to Roath
Castle. The last occasion of his so doing proved fatal, for he came into
collision with a cart loaded with manure, and died on the spot. This was
a sad loss to Cardiff and the neighbourhood. I was a Juryman on the inquest.
Mr. Richards had been to a ploughing-match dinner. He was short-sighted,
and wore an eyeglass. He walked with short steps and a curious little hop.
"The Longcross was in my time the name of a house which stood on the
site of the Infirmary, and was one of only nine buildings from the Taff
Vale Railway to Roath Court, including the Spital Barn and a blacksmith's
shop. The barn was pulled down to make the Rhymney Railway. I think the
name Longcross refers to the four cross-roads[15]. There was a very fine
elm-tree on the corner of the Longcross Road, and it is said that suicides
were buried under that tree.
"The Black Friars buildings were in existence about the year 1830,
in the Cooper's Fields, and were inhabited by the Lucas family.
"The County Gaol was situate where Messrs. STEDDALL the mantle-makers
are in business, opposite the present Town Hall; and the entrance to the
yard where the gallows (hence 'Gallhouse') was placed was in a building
about 30 yards off Saint Mary Street, which had been a large pigeon-house.
About 12 feet from the ground was a platform with iron ornamental work
on the two sides and the front. Here was erected the wooden gallows on
which Richard LEWIS ('Dick Penderin') was hanged for participating in the
Merthyr riots of 1831; whom I saw hanging but did not see hanged, being
then at school at six o'clock in the morning. We were not allowed out until
the breakfast hour. In the same year Joe KAYES, a Cardiff man, was hanged
for his participation in the Bristol riots, and his body was brought to
Cardiff for burial and deposited in a cottage at the back of Messrs. MORGAN
& Co.'s premises in the Hayes. I went with the late Dr. C. Redwood
VACHELL to see the body.
"I remember coracles being used at Cardiff, as long as I can remember
anything. Old Mr. James LUCAS, the fisherman, was drowned about 70 years
ago (c. 1825) in endeavouring to land opposite the Black Friars,
from his coracle, during an immense flood of the Taff, such as often occurred
before the river was straightened. He was of an old Cardiff family of fishermen,
and many of his descendants occupy good positions now. Forty years or more
ago (c. 1854) Mr. J. LUCAS could be seen drawing salmon from his
coracle at the site of the present Royal Hotel. He lost his life at sea,
as a pilot of the Port of Cardiff. Salmon were exceedingly abundant here
at the beginning of the present century, and were far from being esteemed
a delicacy.
"The last thatched house in the town proper (not including Spittal
Cottages) was opposite the old Theatre in Crockherbtown. It was inhabited
by a shoemaker, who took the tickets at the Theatre.
"The first theatre that is known about was opened by WILLIAMS' company
in a loft over the extensive stabling belonging to Mr. John BRADLEY, contractor
for conveying His Majesty's mails through South Wales. This gentleman was
grandfather of our respected townsman Mr. W. B. WATKINS[16] (late Alderman,
and Registrar of Births &c.), and Mr. R. Reece WATKINS, and great-grandfather
of Mr. William BRADLEY, Solicitor. This theatre was in Quay Street. Here
happened the amusing incident of the resuscitated corpse, above related.
"Soon after this the Theatre was removed to Trinity Street, with an
entrance in Working Street. It was situate between the site of the present
Free Library and the old Royal Hotel, on the property of Mr. (afterwards
Sir) John GUEST. Its stay here was short, and the building was subsequently
used as an Infant School for the joint Parishes of Saint John and Saint
Mary.
"Shortly afterwards another theatre was started, known as Collins'
Theatre, near the site of the present Town Hall.
"In 1827 the old Theatre in Crockherbtown was built, by a company of
gentlemen who did not care much about its being a paying concern - or if
they did they were disappointed. Each subscriber to the undertaking enjoyed
the privilege of a silver ticket giving free admission to the perfomances
at all times. Soon after its first opening the pit of this theatre was
flooded by water from the adjoining field, a nursery garden belonging to
Messrs. MILLER & SWEET, of Bristol. About 1836 the Feeder was cut for
the West Bute Dock, by Messrs. DALTON & Wm. DAWSON. That excavation
passing near and below the Theatre, completely drained the pit, and the
perfomances were regularly carried on until the building was burned down
in 1877, under the management of Kate KENEALY.
"Subsequently a limited company started the Theatre Royal in Wood Street,
Temperance Town, with great success; and in 1880 the Grand Theatre in Westgate
Street was licensed for the legitimate drama."
[1] The second Marquess.
[2] These were only printed law-books; they were burned in January 1896.
[3] This statement was made apropos of some question as to a right of way
through the Old Arcade.
[4] William RICHARDS, esq.
[5] Capt. John Glynne Richards HOMFRAY, J.P., 1st Life Guards.
[6] No. 1 Saint Mary Street.
[7] Paternal ancestor of Lord Wimborne.
[8] Since deceased.
[9] A Welsh idiom, meaning "into a sitting posture".
[10] The late Dr. Edgar JONES', next house west of Dr. HARDIMAN's, on the
south side of Queen Street.
[11] Afterwards this was kept in the Town Hall yard; now in the Victoria
Park.
[12] It is now in the Museum.
[13] These entymologies must not be taken as scientific.
[14] Now Talworth Street and Pearson Street, on the east side of Castle
Road.
[15] Not so, but to the ancient Payn's Cross, which formerly stood there.
[16] Since deceased, uncle to Mr. John Maitland WATKINS, Solicitor, of Usk.