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The
giants of Torridon don't come much bigger than Beinn Eighe (below),
a veritable mountain range on its own, with a ridge snaking above
the upper reaches of Glen Torridon, and towering above the village
of Kinlochewe. (Where there is incidentally a superb wee Caravan Club
site.)
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It
was mid May, a favourite time of the year to be on the hills, and
my parents had arranged to rent a cottage in Lochcarron for a long
weekend, while I drove up from Somerset to join them, via Edinburgh
where I picked up Scott. The journey north was a long one, and having
left home at lunchtime, it was gone 11.00pm when we pulled into
the gravel drive of Onich Cottage at Lochcarron and were greeted
by my folks.
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The
cottage was a pleasant surprise with lovely big bedrooms and roomy
public rooms. We all retired after a short while with Scott and
I deciding that the morning's intended hills would be confined to
Beinn Eighe with Sunday perhaps reserved for Beinn Alligin. The
weather had been exceptional over the previous weeks with virtually
no rain falling since early April, a marked contrast to the rest
of the country which had been enduring an horrendous Spring. The
forecast suggested that the weather would be gradually breaking
down over the weekend so we were hoping and praying for the current
spell to continue.
The
morning dawned sunny and warm, and after a quick breakfast we assembled
our gear and jumped into the VW to head off towards Achnashellach
and onwards to Kinlochewe and Glen Torridon. Parking the car at
the NTS car park below Liathach, we headed off up the path towards
Coire MhicFearrachar taking in the stunning views into the northern
corries of Liathach and across to the vast emptiness of the Sheildaig
Forest.
Reaching Coire MhicFearrachar we stopped for a while in the heat
to admire its astonishing buttresses before taking a route up its
left corner and popping out on the coire lip via a steep pull up
a gully with a bit of scrambling to entertain. Leaving our sacs
we strolled over the rolling grassy plateau to reach the rocky promontory
of Ruadh Stac Mor, the first of Beinn Eighe's Munros.
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Returning
to our sacs, we continued south and east along the ridge, taking
a detour to visit the tops to the south west of MhicFearrachar and
marveling at the views over towards Skye and the Hebrides before
turning east along the undulating ridge towards the final Munro
of the day, Spidean Coire nan Clach. The day remained hot and dry
and we had practically exhausted our supplies of water by the time
we reached the trig point just to the east of the summit. There
we lingered for a while, taking our cellphones from our sacs and
phoning our families - waxing lyrical about the weather and the
views. Then leaving the sacs once more, we hopped up the remaining
section of the ridge onto the summit then turned back to the sacs.
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A distant Beinn Alligin from the top of Coire MhicFearrachar
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Liathach from Beinn Eighe
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It
was then that the "incident" occurred.
We
were never entirely sure what happened, but while we descended we
noted a party of three on their way up. We had passed them earlier
and after our prolonged rest and our phone calls, they had practically
caught up with us. The guy in front was armed with walking poles,
pieces of equipment I had routinely slagged off for many a year,
and as he passed the sacs, it seemed that his poles set in motion
a layer of scree. This led to a train of events that resulted in
the stones upon which our sacs lay, shifting and rolling, and my
sac started a slow and deliberate roll down towards the mouth of
a gully that lay directly below.
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Scott
raced ahead of me trying to retrieve the sac before it tumbled to
its doom, but the shifting scree made his attempts, increasingly
dangerous as the sac neared the edge of the drop. I watched the
sac in disbelief, its progress being so slow and stately that I
thought it must soon come to a halt.
Then
it disappeared from view, accompanied by a great clattering of rocks
and accompanied by the smell of sulphur as the rocks cannoned off
one another in their haste to accompany the sac on its journey into
the hellish depths of the gully.
Then
all was quiet.
"How
the f**k did that happen?" I gasped.
We
turned and looked at the trio above us on the ridge.
"Dunno
must've
been the wind that caught it." came the altogether unconvincing
reply from Jimmy with the walking poles.
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After
a fruitless search by us for some sign of the sac, we abandoned
it and headed down to the car-park. The problem for us though was
that my sac contained the car-keys. A phone call to the cottage
managed to raise my parents and my dad came to pick us up.
We
returned the next day to the north side of Beinn Eighe for a fruitless
search of the rugged north side of the mountain but spied no sign
of the sac. The car and the pair of us were ultimately picked up
by a recovery truck on the Monday and transported down to Edinburgh.
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Looking west from Beinn Eighe
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It
was several months later that I had a visit from the local constabulary
who informed me that my sac had been found and was now residing
in Ullapool police station. It had been found by a Dutch climber
and handed into the garage at Kinlochleven.
Eventually
I was reunited with my rucksack after another trip north the following
November. Most of the gear was rendered useless by the exposure
to the weather over the previous months, but a few items wee salvageable.
A souvenir of my trip to Torridon!
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The summit ridge of Spidean Coire nan Clach
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