Our 5th anniversary - in Venice

September 11 - 16, 2003


Friday, September 12
Our fifth anniversary - After Lunch

"Thus the charm of this bizarre passage through the heart of Venice, even while it played upon his spirit, yet was sensibly cooled by the predatory commercial spirit of the fallen queen of the seas."

Thomas Mann - Death in Venice


Our taxi ride home was fun, fast and furious. Even if we weren't going anywhere in particular, the ride would have been worth the money, just for the sheer thrill of it. There were moments when the wind actually flattened my face, we flew so fast. Our extraordinary driver and his 'cute young thing' - Monica, the lovely dark-haired babe that jumped onto our boat at the last minute - were absolutely great. He sped like a demon. She shrugged sheepishly, as if to say "well, I can't stop him." Meanwhile, back in the stern, we were hanging on for dear life - and loving every second of it.

Cruising slowly through the residential area

Just before picking up speed

Now we're movin'!

Just enjoying the ride


Just as we were about to enter the lagoon proper, he veered off to the right and down a decently sized side canal. As he slowed, we applauded him for the exhilarating ride, and they both grinned back at us. Now were moving slowly down this residential area, with laundry lines spanning the canal overhead, and parked and sometimes double parked boats on both sides. We're sneaking in the back way - we come out into the lagoon again under a typical bridge and just at the bow of the hideously out of place Crystal cruise ship monstrosity.

Entering a residential area

The cruise ship


Then our man zips in and out, around other taxis, barges, ferries, big ferries, behind tugs and at last into the lively Grand Canal. He does a bit of a doughnut at the Accademia and we're off. We give them a €20 tip - and it was well worth it. We wave frantically as they push off, and he and Monica wave to us as they leave us behind - and the police arrive right after. Probably nothing to do with his speeding, but we couldn't help but wonder.

Approaching the Grand Canal

Car ferry and the Campanile

San Marco

Passing astern of a gondola - Grand Canal


What a great ride!

Off the taxi, we have no real plans, so we just stroll while the adrenaline levels return to normal.

Well, actually, I do have a small mission: to get all of this down in the journal while it's fresh. So we find a realtively non-touristy square (campo) - somewhat non-touristy only because of construction works - but of course there are tourists there as well. We sit a cafe under the umbrella - unnecessary, really, as the buildings are now shading us from the sun - and order due birra. And I write.



Street views on our way to the cafe



Cafe denizens


Then it's back to the Billi grocery store for a few things we forgot yesterday (like butter), where there's a big, long Friday night queue. And now we're here back home again - our light dinner of artichokes simmering on the stove, drinking the rest of our Chianti and taking it easy on what has been an absolutely glorious 5th anniversary.

Saturday, September 13