ZIMBABWE - Lake Kariba & Matusadona NP

Lake Kariba is a man-made lake created following the completion of the Kariba Dam which was built between 1955 and 1959 to harness the waters of the Zambezi River and provide hydro-electric power to  both Zimbabwe and Zambia. Before the waters rose, some 51,000 people of the Tonga tribe had to be resettled on higher ground.  Almost 5,000 animals were also rescued in “Operation Noah” co-ordinated by the game ranger Rupert Fothergill. The Zambezi Valley which incorporates Lake Kariba is today one of the most important wildlife sanctuaries in Africa. 

The lake has a slightly eerie atmosphere which is perhaps due to the numerous dead trees which still protrude above the water from the spot where they once flourished. Both sunsets and sunrises give spectacular displays of light over the lake. Two of the lakes most common inhabitants are the hippo and the crocodile.  Both are quite difficult to observe. The hippo will stay submerged much of the time and only come up for an occasional breath of air giving a brief chance to spot the twitching ears and the peering eyes. Crocodiles are usually content to bask by the side of the lake looking very much like dead logs - until you approach and they slip into the water with a quiet splash.

The baby rhino sanctuary at Rob’s Point in Matusadona National Park looks after newly born black rhino before releasing them back into the wild.  In previous years, rhino have been donated from Matusadona to game parks around Zimbabwe.  Now, in return, when these rhino breed, their calfs are returned to Matusadona and they are supported until ready to return to the wild.  During their stay at the sanctuary, they are kept in pens at night but are allowed to roam free during the day. As you can see, they are quite tame and enjoy being stroked in all the usual places that babies like to be pampered !  The first rhino from the sanctuary has already been released and has since mated successfully in the wild.

Another fascinating sight on Lake Kariba is the small fishing village of Nyanzirawo near Bumi Hills in the mouth of the Ume River.  This is a place where time seems to have stood still and the local people make a living from fishing to feed the rest of the people in the village. Everything here is basic and to our perceptions, the people seem to have nothing. And yet this is a surprisingly enchanting place to visit and you get a real sense of a community living together without the competitive nature of western society.  The people here never beg or expect any money from the visitors - they just love having their picture taken in the hope that perhaps one day they might receive a photograph of themselves which would immediately become a prize momento.

And finally ...as we were sipping our cocktails on the verandah at Musango Safari Camp, overlooking Lake Kariba, who should stroll by but the giant monitor lizard known affectionately by the camp staff as ‘the general manager’.  This reptile is over one metre in length and gives you quite a shock when he comes out of the bushes and strides across the lawn ! However, he really wasn’t very interested in us but was quite content to collect grubs and insects on the end of his tongue.