NAMIBIA - Swakopmund and the Skeleton Coast

Swakopmund is Namibia’s famous seaside resort and is located between the Namib Desert and the Atlantic coastline.  The town is picturesque with many graceful turn-of-the century buildings and feels reminiscent of a small Bavarian village. In 1896, a steam engine arrived in 1896 to provide a rail link with Windhoek but after a few months it got bogged down on the spot where it still stands today as a national monument. It was named ‘Martin Luther’ after the evangelist’s famous statement “here I stand, God help me, I cannot do otherwise”.  Swakopmund is a place where people from Windhoek will come for a short break or holiday by the ocean.

There are many hotels and restaurants in the town. One of our favourites was Fagin’s Restaurant. Near to Swakopmund, in the northern part of the Namib-Naukluft Park, lies an area of where many Welwitschia Mirabilis plants may be found . These long-lived botanic oddities are one of the great natural wonders of the plant world. Having adapted to the dry desert soil, these plants are known to live to be more than 1,500 years old. Travelling north from Swakopmund, up the Atlantic coast takes you to the seal colony at Cape Cross.  This is also the spot where Diego Cao, the Portugese explorer landed in 1485 on a mission to round the southern cape of Africa. 

The seal colony itself is a truly amazing sight as thousands of seals vie for the best place to sunbath on the beach.  Unfortunately, the smell is equally amazing and you probably wouldn’t want to have your picnic at this spot !

Further up the coast you reach the mouth of the Ugab River and the entrance to the Skeleton Coast National Park. The entrance is graced with a splendid pair of skull and crossbone gates reflecting the notorious reputation of this part of the coast. The Skeleton Coast is scattered with the remains of vessels that have floundered on the jagged coastline amidst the icy Atlantic waves.

Visiting the Skelton Coast : A permit is required to enter the Skeleton Coast NP and you must buy this in Swakopmund or Windhoek before you depart. The gates to the park close at 3.00 p.m. The only place to stay within the park is Terrace Bay and you should definitely book in advance if you wish to stay here.  The accommodation is fine and has plenty hot water and permanent electricity - but the restaurant here leaves a little to be desired (we never did discover what we were served but it wasn’t pleasant !).