As with any sport, the equipment list can be as long as you like, but the one following covers the basics. A big plus point to PP shooting is that the competitions are divided into classes so that the playing field is level - the people with optical sights, large capacity magazines and the like will be competing with each other, not those (like me) using basic equipment. More information on the various classes later on. So, on with the list, followed by more detailed information on each of the items.
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1.)............ Pistol
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2.)............ Extra magazines
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3.)............ Holster and belt
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4.)............ Magazine pouch or clip(s)
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5.)............ Safety glasses
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6.)............ Pellets and CO2 capsules (yes, I know it’s obvious - just a reminder)
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Pistols
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What you need is a magazine fed pistol or revolver capable of firing multiple shots before reloading. The vast majority of pistols used for PP are CO2 powered, but a few shooters use Brocock air cartridge revolvers. The standard calibre is .177 but .22 is allowed. Pistols using steel or plastic BB’s and Airsoft* pistols are not suitable and are not allowed. * Check news section - rules change
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I use a Walther CP88. It’s the 4” model with wood grips and cost me £80 second-hand. Other popular “semi-auto” style pistols are Berettas, Colts, the Anics Skif and the RWS C225. Walther, Beretta and Colt pistols all use 8 round rotary magazines. The Anics Skif is very different in that it takes a 28 round “stick” magazine, which slips into the butt. Smith & Wesson reign supreme amongst the revolver users, with the 6” model probably the most popular. These use a 10 round rotary magazine.
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Brocock revolvers differ in that the power source is air, not CO2. They are loaded with cartridges that look similar to a .38 centrefire round, each cartridge containing its own air supply. You have to refill each cartridge with air after it has been discharged and load a fresh pellet into the “nose cone”. Super guns and a super system and more powerful than CO2 pistols, but very expensive to start out with - the pistols are pricey and check out the price of the cartridges in magazine ads. Nevertheless, when I win the lottery I’m going to buy one!
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Visit a dealer with a decent selection of pistols too select from before you buy - choose one that “feels right” for you. Power levels are pretty much the same across the range so don’t worry about that (the Anics Skif has more than most CO2’s). Most important is that you feel comfortable with the gun. For what it’s worth I’d suggest you don’t bother with the “match” or “competition” versions either if you’re a beginner - stick with the basic model. Most “match” or “competition” models simply add a compensator. Compensators are designed to reduce recoil induced muzzle “flip” - useful on rimfire/centrefire pistols but of no practical value whatever on a CO2 pistol which is, for all practical purposes, totally recoilless. The two exceptions that I know of are the Walther CP88 and RWS C225 Competition which have a 6” barrel (on many other pistols the compesator is “cosmetic” and the barrel length stays at 4”). With a CO2 pistol a longer barrel gives a longer sightbase, which aids accuracy, and a little more power (but frankly not enough to be worth bothering about for PP shooting). Match type sights, if available as an extra, are, in my opinion, an unnecessary complication. PP is more akin to combat style shooting than precision target. Standard sights, most of which simply adjust for windage (left to right) but not elevation are fine in my book. If you want more sophisticated sights go for opticals, Red dots or similar (but be prepared to move into a different class in competition shooting).
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A quick summary of the various pistol classes follows - for full details you need to download the full PP rulebook. Check the links section for details on where to go for it.
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Standard. No optical sights. Maximum magazine capacity 10 rounds.
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Modified. Opticals allowed. Maximum magazine capacity 10 rounds.
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Open. Opticals allowed. No restriction on magazine capacity.
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