E.111 | Bike | Rider | When to go | Suggestion | Documentation | Daily distance | Law
E.111
This is a simple certificate that you can get free from the DSS (get an application form from the Post office) which proves that you are entitled to free medical treatment in the UK and Europe. If you need medical care this will be used to claim back the cost from the British government. You will be seen to immediately, and your E.111 will be photocopied and returned to you. In Spain they will not ask for money, but will probably ask if you have recently received tetanus jabs. You will be given excellent medical attention and sent on your way (all being well). The E.111 system works better than money and credit cards in the rural parts of Spain (just try finding a private clinic!) because they have a national health system a bit like ours - but without the waiting lists. How can I be so sure that it works - because I've used it, that's why. I scraped my bike, and my arm, along a wall in a tiny town in the middle of nowhere and the E.111 did very nicely thank-you. Get one. You may want to read about the crash in my stories page.
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The bike
What type of bike is suitable?
It is pretty obvious that a big bike is better than a small bike for travelling hundreds of miles a day - but what type of bike is suitable. In terms of power the bike should be capable of cruising at 70mph all day, including up steep hills. That is the basic minimum unless you've got a Harley. But Harleys break all the rules, so you'll have to have a more leisurely trip and take an extra couple of days. My first trip was made on a VF400 Honda which had a bikini fairing. At high speeds the wind pressure became tiring which kept my average speed down a bit. However, I enjoyed the trip immensely, so I repeated it the following year on a 750. A 600 with a full fairing would be fine, although you will soon get fed up with gear changes. I can guarantee that 'peaky' bikes will wear you out more quickly once the initial novelty has gone. On the 750 I tended to stick it in top and leave it there all the time, including overtakes.
Travelling around the continent you see that the most common bikes doing long journeys are the hypersports, such as GSX-R750 and various Ninjas. At speed the wind pressure is taken off your wrists and unless you do a lot of town riding you should be ok. At the channel ports you see many BMWs, so they must be ok too. So what have we then?
Good bikes: Touring BMWs, 750+ sports bikes (e.g Fireblades), and less peaky 600s.
So-so bikes: Yamaha R1 (beware the fairing efficiency), peaky 600s and 400s.
At-your-peril bikes: Sporty small bikes, such as the Aprilia RS250.
If you aren't sure, then go for a long ride in the UK. Do a round trip of, say 250 miles, one day. And repeat it the next. If it rains on the second day - tough luck, you've still got to do it. If you can't cope in the UK you aren't going to be able to cope abroad. If you don't feel up to it on the second day, then don't endanger yourself, call the second day off and cancel any plans to go abroad. Its common sense really.
Lights
Its pretty obvious that, before you go, the bike must have had a recent service and that the tyres and chain are capable of lasting for up to another 3000 miles. But, did you know that its a legal requirement in most of Europe to have a spare set of light bulbs with you at all times. So pop down to your local bike shop and buy one of each bulb type, wrap them in bubble-wrap or similar and secure them under your seat or somewhere safe. The fuss and bother will practically guarantee that no bulbs will blow. Because bike headlights don't have the same type of 'flick-up' as car headlights, there is no requirement to add little bits of sticky plastic to cancel out the nearside illumination area. Also, there is no longer a legal requirement to have yellow headlights in France.
Tyres
Your tyres must be capable of lasting another 3000 miles or you will need to replace them whilst abroad. If you are wondering what sort to buy then I suggest whatever you normally use. If, however, you are unsure then I would suggest sticky sports tyres on a sports bike and not touring tyres. This is because on a long journey the tyres tend to have an easy life and so the lasting properties of a touring tyre are not so necessary. However, the roads of Spain are often very dusty and sometimes highly 'polished'. Because of this the grip is sometimes minimal and sticky tyres are a great help. I have been to Spain three times on a Honda VFR750 (1990 model) - each time with different tyres. The original fitment Bridgestone Battlax (BT50s I think) were ok, but the steering was heavy. Sports touring Avons had excellent handling characteristics, but the grip was hopeless - the rear was often sliding around under heavy acceleration (in the dry). The next fitment were Metzeler MEZ1s - these were fabulous but didn't last very long. The grip from these and the general feel was great. So my tip is to err on the grippy side.
Luggage
Unless you have the luxury of panniers on your bike then you'll need to spend a bit of time and/or money finding a solution to carrying your luggage and other useful equipment. I am too mean to spend big money on something that may only be used once a year so I hit upon a half-way house solution: buy a tankbag and then cobble together a seat mounted system for added flexibility and room. Buy or borrow a quick-release tank bag, but make sure it fits properly by taking your bike for a longish run first. If it slips off after 50 miles you can chuck it immediately. I bought one with straps that go under the tank and around the head bearing area and this was most successful. If possible, get a bag with a transparent plastic cover so that you can put a map inside it. That way you can pull up alongside someone, point to the map, and ask the way. You don't need to speak the lingo because it's obvious what you want.
For added room I bought a very cheap non-brandname school backpack (in waterproof plastic). In this bag you should put non-essential items (such as chain lube and cheap stuff) so that you can leave it on the bike when you go into restaurants. Strap it on to your pillion seat with bungie straps and only take it off the bike at the end of your day's riding. Ok, it may get stolen, but it will save you carrying two bags everywhere. Your instantly removable bag should contain items such as camera, expensive gear, necessary clothes, and things which you cannot do without. Passports and other papers you should keep on your person in your jacket pocket. If you are carrying a pillion then you cannot use this method and you are unlikely to survive without panniers.
Exhaust
I'm referring here to naughty exhausts, and whether the French and Spanish police are more touchy than British ones. Well, the answer is probably that they are much the same. However, as you may be asked (rather politely at gun point) to pay an on-the-spot fine, you may want to replace a noisy can with the original if you still have it. If the police hear you coming they are more likely to stop you, aren't they. The fine for speeding in France is staggering, so anything that helps you slip by unnoticed is a Good Thing.
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The rider
Clothes
It's easy enough for someone to make a long list of clothing 'musts' for a long tour on a bike, but the problem is that there is no room to stow stuff when you don't need it - and believe me there will be times when you won't need it. The temperature in the middle of Spain in summer is usually about 38C in the afternoon, and not a lot less in the coastal regions. Even France can be quite hot in summer, especially once you get into the South. In my opinion there are only two temperatures in France; too hot, and too cold.
So, what should you take. Firstly, you will be surprised how cold it gets in the Spanish mountains first thing in the morning. You will need to wrap up well, but by about 10am you will start shedding clothes at a remarkable rate. You will probably not have room for more, so consider taking the following:
- Leather jacket
- Leather trousers/jeans
- One piece waterproof oversuit
- Waterproof boots
- Waterproof gloves
- Long-johns
- Neck 'tube' or similar
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You will find that it will rain sometime during your trip, so be prepared. There is nothing more miserable than riding for several hours when you're soaked. Waterproof oversuits are good value because they cost very little and are extremely effective. You do not need the best quality 'breathable' oversuit with a correspondingly high price. Something that is made of waterproof plastic and can be folded away into a small space is ideal. I say this because you won't get as sticky on a bike as you would be hiking, because you will not be sweating much. I've been caught in many downpours and all-day rain many times, and keeping the rain out is not that difficult. I use an old Rukka plastic suit and it is simply superb. I've also got a cheap one-piece suit which I got free from M&P with a pair of gloves, and these look just as good, but without the pockets.
You will need other footwear for your trip, but try not to use them on the bike because it can be so dusty in Spain that they'll get grubby immediately. If you have room for 'baseball' type trainers, with ankle protection, then these will come in handy during very hot weather. Some people claim that you will need a long list of items. This is true, but you can't have them on a bike, so you need to be ruthless and cut your clothing to the minimum.
If possible, resist the temptation to take off your jacket and jeans and ride in T-shirt and shorts. The chance of a scrape is always there, especially as you will be less experienced riding on the 'wrong' side. If you want to explore the outer limits of 'hot' you should drive around Madrid in the afternoon rush hour when the shade temperature will be about 38 to 40 degrees C. However, being realistic you may need to remove your jacket, but keep to jeans or leather trousers and leave the shorts for the beach.
Ear plugs
Most bikers with big bikes have these and have experimented with various types. If you haven't then you should consider, seriously, buying some plugs. Wind noise may be acceptable to you on your blast to work and back, but for 10 hours a day its not so funny. Boots sell foam ones for about £2 for a pack of 5 or more. These are the types that I use - they are amazingly effective, but try a few and see which are the most comfortable. Efficiency is useless if they are too uncomfortable to use.
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When to go
The longest days and the warmest weather are available in the summer so that is the obvious time to go. However, the Spanish and French, particularly, nearly all take their holidays in August, so it would be best to avoid this time. Not only will the roads be emptier but hotels will be less full too.
If you intend to go over the mountains then steer clear of November to May; the passes may be snow covered. Even in June the higher passes of the Pyrenees may have some snow remaining on the road side, and it should be obvious that bikes, ice, and 1000 foot drops make an unpleasant combination. Even the Massif Central region of France can have snow covered roads late into spring.
So that means June then? Yes, that's probably the best compromise between possible dry conditions in northern France and not too hot in Spain. May is also a reasonable choice but be prepared to dress up to keep warm; early mornings can be cold and miserable for the first couple of hours in France.
Early July is another good choice, because like June the days will be long and the temperatures high. The traffic will start to increase in the holiday areas, and you may clip the start of the mass holiday season, but it is worth a try.
September will be warm in France, but too hot perhaps in Spain. The days are getting shorter and there is a possibility of catching the dreaded Gota fria on the Spanish Mediterranean coast. This translates to 'cold drop' and is a series of thunderstorms that last three or four days to mark the change from summer (too hot) to autumn (just right). The mean date for these storms is the first day of October. If you get caught in a good one the water will be over your boots. You will be unlucky to catch these downpours, but if you do go during September and October be prepared. You may be drenched. However, a couple of hundred miles later you will be steaming as the sun dries you out. You will be hot and sticky, but you boots will be squelching. Don't say I didn't warn you!
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A holiday suggestion
What about this for an idea if your partner is not a biker. You go with a friend on your bikes to a tourist trap in Spain (call it Benidorm) for a holiday. But your partners fly down and meet you there. Set off three days before them and come back three days later. You'll need three weeks off work, but you'll have your bikes for transport. Everyone's happy. Then, if you ask them nicely your partners can take your tidy clothes in their suitcases leaving you to concentrate on biking. I'll leave it to you to approach them with the proposal. If you ride like idiots and crash then don't blame me.
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Documentation
If you think its boring reading about paperwork then just think of me - I've gotta write it! The fact is that this bit is very important. The obvious papers like passport and channel crossing tickets are not the only things needed. Ring up your insurance company and check that you are covered for the continent, and get a Spanish bail bond and continental green card. The Spanish bail bond is to stop the Policia Local (they wave their guns about), or Guardia Civil (they shoot you), from shoving you in their cells until someone comes to (literally) bail you out. For the green card you will need to tell them which countries you intend visiting, but they are usually free of charge. All a green card does is prove that you have valid insurance for the countries that you are visiting - the local police may want to see proof, and they probably can't read English insurance certificates - although it may upgrade your continental cover from 'legal cover' to comprehensive with some policies. Check with your insurance company and make sure you get one.
Your insurance company will also give you a European accident form. I haven't actually had to use one, but in France it is a legal requirement to fill one in if you have an accident which involves other people or vehicles. The French call it constat a l'amiable and it should be completed before you move the vehicle. The sections on the form that you complete are identical for all European languages, just the explanatory text is different to suit the nationality of the user. Take it with you or else.
You may wish to take out some form of foreign travel breakdown and personal injury insurance. These seem to be reasonable value for money considering that you are riding a bike in a foreign country. In the event of something nasty happening they can get you, and your bike, home or to your destination.
There are many sources of channel tickets and breakdown insurance available. I used the ones which were advertised in Bike magazine and they were excellent. This was back in the dark ages before the tunnel, and the offers had a very original name - like Bike Tours - but there were many others. Otherwise, hunt about in the classifieds at the back of magazines - sorry, but I can't help with this level of detail. There is nothing to stop you buying a channel crossing ticket via a local travel agent and use their insurance packet. These are often linked to the AA.
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How far each day?
You need to be able to cover about 400 miles each day to make the trip short enough to enjoy some time at your destination before you travel back. Aim for three or four days travelling in each direction if you set off from somewhere in England or Wales and are travelling down through France to, say, Benidorm. Add another day for the extreme south of Spain, and another for a Scottish start. This is assuming long days travelling, with the bare minimum of motorways. There isn't much point in doing the whole trip on the motorway, although you can save the cost of a night at a hotel. Its really down to you. A very common trip for bikers from southern England is to cross the channel and get to the annual Bol d'Or race in southern France on one day using the motorways. This is fine for this purpose, but this site has been written for someone who wants to see the countryside and enjoy the riding.
So how do I plan it? Its easy really; just get out a map of Europe, or an atlas and mark your start and destination points. Then put coins or pins or other removable markers at roughly 400 mile intervals - but remember to take into account the channel crossing which will add time. Do you get a reasonably even spread from start to finish? If not, then rearrange them so they do. Are there too many overnight stops (budget for about £30 a room as a rule of thumb)? Look for interesting places within a few miles of these points as possible hotel stops. Stick pins in half way between, these are your lunch breaks. Look for interesting places, because you may want to stay for a couple of hours. For coffee and petrol breaks you can stop when necessary, but even here you may be able to plan somewhere of interest.
So here are the rules of thumb for a tough, but stress-free trip:
- Maximum on dual carriageway per day - 500 miles
- Maximum on main roads per day - 400 miles
- Maximum on smaller roads per day - 300 miles
- Maximum without a stop - numb bum, or petrol needed (approximately 2 hours)
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It is impossible for me to estimate how far you are capable of travelling in a day. Remember that the figures above assume that you are an experienced biker. If you consider yourself to be a Superhero you may wish to increase this. Whatever you do, safety must be your top priority.
You will probably find that an hour and a half will be your optimum interval between rest stops, unless you have a very comfy seat. You cannot always estimate how far that will take you, because it depends on the road conditions.
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The law
France Speeding fines can be levied on-the-spot in France, and according to common folklore they are very hefty. Luckily, I can't confirm that fact; but if you assume the worst and you get caught then you are either unlucky or you weren't paying attention. All European countries are hot on drink-driving, so don't. Half a beer is unlikely to affect your driving, but be very careful because continental beer tends to have a higher alcohol content. Check the latest rules before you go, but why bother drinking on route? Keep your mind clear, and have a good drink at the end of the day. If your bike is over 125cc (well would you do 1300 miles on a Honda 90?) it is compulsory to use dipped headlights in the daylight. Crash helmets are also compulsory.
France used to have a 'priority to the right' system. This was a quaint system of keeping accident statistics up by allowing tractors to pull out, legally, onto a main road without looking. Even the French have decided that this is silly and it is now no longer mandatory to cause carnage this way - they cause carnage other ways instead. For instance, they have recently learn how to build roundabouts. Ten years ago this totally confused the French, and visiting Brits could frighten the locals with their mastery of this new mysterious road hazard. Nowadays, the French have learnt from us and have now mastered them - shame. The rules are the same as ours, but in mirror image form. So, just be careful because although they are generally courteous to bikers they tend to be aggressive drivers, and they make mistakes.
The French police are hot on lane discipline (that's why the French tend to be good at it, especially on Motorways). I believe that you are legally required to indicate when you intend pulling out to overtake, and again on the way back in. However, although the French do indicate more than we do, they seem to miss it enough that they aren't too bothered. 'Watch what they do' may be good advice, if in doubt do it every time. Talking of lane discipline, one good thing about motorway driving in France is that they indicate to let you know that they want to overtake. As an example, you are in the outside lane of an Autoroute (i.e left lane) doing a steady 145kph, and behind you is an Audi indicating left. When it is convenient pull over and let them by. This indication means "I know we are in a queue of fast moving traffic, but I do want to go faster, so please let me by and I won't get in the way afterwards." It's very civilised and lets you know that they aren't one of a stream of vehicles happy at this speed.
Spain In general, the Spanish are less reckless than the French, in fact they seem positively patient. As far as bikes go car drivers treat you as a hero. Not only do they move over to let you go by, but they even warn you when you shouldn't. If you come up to overtake a car and he waves backwards out of the window, then pull back. Inevitably, there will be two Guardias on bikes just visible up ahead. If they pull over for you, then acknowledge it with a little rise of your right hand. If there are police up ahead you will be warned by oncoming cars and bikes to slow down. Frantic arm waving and light flashing will be set in motion just for your benefit. What lovely people.
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Big hint!
So, I've been to Spain by vehicle about seven or eight times, and used a hire-car dozens of times; what blockbuster information can I give my readers.
Answer: DON'T CROSS THE SOLID WHITE LINES. If you park on a pedestrian crossing the police won't notice. If you jump a red light, they don't seem as bothered as the british police (but don't do it, just because the Spanish do it). But cross a white line, and I shudder to think what would happen to you. I got stopped once just to tell me that I 'looked as if I might cross the line', and that I mustn't even think about it. I kid you not, this is absolutely true - I was overtaking a line of cars, one at a time, and two police bikers pulled me over because I looked like I might cross white lines. I think it may have been a excuse to have a chat though.
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Whilst on the subject of Spanish police, here is another bit of advice. When travelling over the Pyrenees be ready with your Log book and passport. Two things get moved over the Pyrennes (especially the smaller routes) - drugs and stolen bikes. You may be stopped by some nasty looking army types who will walk off with your passport for about ten minutes. This is to ring up headquarters and see if you are on the list of drug smugglers. You'll then get your passport back and with a cheery wave you are on your way. If you have a big bike (especially a supersports model) you may be stopped because people steal them in France and drive them back over the border to be sold in Spain. Your log book will be sufficient to satisfy them as long as the name ties up with your passport.
As in France you are legally required to use headlights during the day. Also, I think that you are supposed to flash your lights or blow your horn before overtaking, but the Spanish bikers don't seem to do it. Contrary to public opinion the Spanish don't blow their horns as much as they are supposed to. When they do, it's a riot of a cacaphony, but in general they are tolerant of minor driving mistakes. If a procession of vehicles are driving through town sounding their horns then relax, it's a wedding. (But, in this case you may be breaking the law by not joining in.)
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