Handy Hints Page

Handy Hints Page!

Electrical

The rear wiring loom on a new 7 where is crosses from the bulkhead across the suspension is horrible. Before you build the car remove the ty wraps, wrap the loom in some cloth impregnated tape and fit your anti roll bar mounts. Then refit the new, thicker and better protected loom OVER the ARB mount. See the build section for photos. Be careful with handbrake cable routing.

Why not fit a small racing battery to the car to reduce weight? This is a very cheap (less than 100GBP) way to save quite a few kilo’s! The 30Ah, 230A Banner battery that came with the SLR weighs 9Kg. DMS and Hawker do “Redtop” racing batteries in various flavours, the one I chose cost just £70 (approx) from my Dad’s shop (I can get you one if you’d like one) and is 300A cranking, which gives a much faster start. It is only 14Ah, however, so needs to be kept in tip top condition (I leave it on a conditioner all the time, again from Dad and only £30). This battery weighs just 5Kg. There is more on this in the Modifications section.

99% of electrical faults I see every day are caused by poor earths. Remember that electricity can’t flow through paint! You should clean any paint, grease or corrosion off earth points before attaching the earth terminal. Grease can be used to protect the point from deterioration. The use of a meter is recommended to check the electrical quality of your work. I won’t accept anything worse (greater) than 0.1ohm resistance in an earth. Also, when earthing the engine on a K series, use the spare thread in the LHS of the block rather than going into the engine mount.

An alternator won’t charge unless the warning light terminal sees 12V – ie the bulb in the dash and the circuit is good. Never remove a battery terminal from a running engine unless the warning light bulb has been removed first as this will fry your alternator. If you’ve got charging problems, check the warning light is OK first!

Mechanical

The grub screw that locks the upper steering column outer to the main lower column should be filed flat before installation. I didn’t do this at first and it started to “clunk” after about 400 miles. I traced it to the screw “eating” into the column which effectively loosened it.

Some of the torques in the Caterham manual are too high. The Watts linkage ¼” bolts that go through the bellcrank and rose joints are specced at 10lbft. This stripped mine straight out. 7lbft seemed better.

The Caterham manual refers to “Engine Mount Restriaints” – these are now incorporated into the actual mounts so don’t spend an hour looking for them (like I did (!))

If you specify a Stack dash system you’ll have to fit a wheel speed transducer to the front RHS wheel. There should be a small bracket in the kit (mine was missing). You do still fit the std drive gear in the gearbox, blanking plug and tophat but you don’t need the std gearbox output sensor. When you fit the sensor, it must be very close to the disc bolts to work properly.

The forward Watts link is given at 35lbft – and mine was fine but another chap I know stripped his at this torque. Perhaps only use 25lbft said the factory!

The big 3/8” UNF bolt that goes through the Watts link bellcrank is also given at 35lbft – but again this is damn tight. I chickened out at about 33lbft and suggest 25lbft again!

I cannot over-emphasise the level of wear that happens in your engine when you hammer a cold engine. If you only take note of one thing on this website then this should be that thing!! Look at the picture of the knackered bearing shell on Rich Ellis page as evidence as to what can happen!!!

If you specify the silicone water hoses for the car you ought to apply a small amount of sealant to the bottom radiator hose at the rad itself and the upper joint too where the submarine pipe comes into this hose. If you don’t it will weep slightly.

Miscellaneous

When you are ordering a new 7, remember to decide which exhaust system you are finally going to want and get them to cut the exhaust hole at the factory before they paint the car. This saves you the job (although I have it on good authority that it is not too difficult to do yourself if you forget)

If you are upgrading the ECU on a new, EU3 wired 7, remember you will have to get around the fact that the plugs are different and the engine runs a different style of injection. This requires quite extensive work, and although not too difficult, is certainly going to void a new car warranty. ECU specialists are reputadly working on new solutions for this problem.

The lovely clear indicator lamps on the new R3/4/500 cars are in fact available from your local Landrover dealer – they are the side indicator repeaters on the new Defender! They cost about £2 and all you then need is a couple of orange bulbs from your local car accessory shop! If you get stuck for bulbs then look here

Side repeaters from a Fiat Siecento look great on your headlamp bowls and my car passed SVA with them fitted. Positioning was an issue – check with SVA for the exact place they need to go!

Mountain Bike shops sell “Pace” “CARBON ARMOUR” – little strips of sticky backed carbon fibre that are perfect for protecting the area above the rear wing where the harnesses hit….. Also you really should get some clear protectors too, from mountain bike shops again, and put them UNDER the sill trims where the harnesses clonk there. Otherwise say hello to two annoying little dents…..

Forget the alloy channels and seat runners. Your floor will sag. Redesign it properly from day 1.