Luck was on my side, the combination of a southerly wind meant that our descent took in the twilight sights of Australia’s largest city. During the final approach my port side location treated me a front row seat and I sat mesmerised by the superb view of red and blue neon-logos emblazoned on the skyscrapers plus thousands of city lights glistening like diamonds in the post-dusk-darkness. The floodlit Harbour Bridge and Opera House standing proudly on the edge of the Harbour announced our arrival into Sydney louder then any landing speech from the cabin crew.

Touching sweetly down on the tarmac of the Botany Bayside airport the last twenty-four hours of flying seemed to be forgotten as I stepped out into the warm-winter air of evening.

Whatever

state you visit at whatever time-of-year Australia’s fabulous climate will be in your favour. In the heat of the Australian summer (nov-feb) temperatures in the lower half of the continent are comparable to the North African coast with highs between 35 to 40 degrees. This is the finest time to visit the southern states as the capital cities will be full of zest, fuelled by the heat of the sun and you can guarantee of an abundance of shorts and beach weather.

The top most half of the continent, Darwin & Cairns are in their prime during the warm winter sunshine (jun - sep) when temperatures average between 30-32 degrees. At any other time not only will the heat be unbearable but the humidity will weigh down on your shoulders like a colossal tax bill.

The state capitals are a melting pot of multi-cultural customs and people. Sydney alone has over 140 different cultures represented while outside of Adelaide the town of Elizabeth is as English as Oxford and fish & chips. Brisbane in Queensland is the epicentre of Oriental groups and Melbourne has one of the largest Greek communities outside of Athens.

It’s effortless to melt into the culture of Australia. With no language barriers to overcome you can readily find directions and smoothly make plans to spend your time as efficiently as possible. And even though numerous British icons are at every corner Australia is different enough to bring awe and wonderment to the most seasoned traveller. The place names are a more-then-subtle reminders of the motherland - Lewisham, Liverpool , Richmond and Windsor just a small selection of towns with similar references in the New South Wales state. But wherever did they get the ideas for place titles such as Wooloomoloo, Gumly Gumly or Wagga Wagga?

Australians themselves are a proud race and although enthusiastic for their island to a degree approaching jingoism they still hold a place in their hearts for the Motherland. None would ever admit to this fact but there is a certain fondness for the Royal Family and Twinings Tea. Another example of their secret-love-affair comes at the end of the early-evening news when there is a throw-away item from the British news. Once you get around the ‘Not another bloody Pom’ attitude they are a friendly and amiable breed.

It was deep in the heart of New South Wales one Sunday-afternoon that I finally found that stereo-typical Australian male. The one and only True-blue digger, no Crocodile Dundee you must understand but a symbol that is so instantly associated with Australia along with the likes of Ayers rock, Rolf Harris and Skippy.

“Howse ya garn” Darb boomed out through a huge grinning mouth that was topped by a tremendous moustache.

“Great thanks”, I beamed back and stretched out a hand to him that protocol insists upon. With a movement quicker then a striking King-Cobra he deposited a bottle of beer in my outstretched mitt. The glass was colder then a Traffic-Warden’s heart and I thought it would surely ice itself to my palm. I took a quick sip to be polite hoping all the while that my fillings wouldn’t freeze. After a few pleasantries were exchanged I appeared to be fully accepted into the gathering and he led me over to his pride and joy - the Webber ( bbq’s are so commonplace that they have thrown out the generic term and refer to them by their brand names) Webber’s I was informed later are the barbie equivalent of a Mercedes. He slowly lifted the lid, never once breaking his tremendous grin, and pointed out the Sunday lunch that had been slowly cooking for the last two hours. A full leg of lamb seasoned lovingly with Rosemary and Garlic accompanied by that unmistakable charcoal aroma - not a prawn in sight.

Dee, Darb's wife, then questioned me as to how could I possibly live in the UK as her British cousin had told her that it was always raining and cold. I correctly informed her that it doesn’t constantly rain in England. Sometimes its just stopped raining and sometimes its just about to start and her cousin probably lives in Scotland anyway.

New South Wales

New South Wales is the most densely populated state of Australia. The country side ranges from snow packed summits in the south to lush-green temperate rainforests of the north.

Separating the coast from remainder of the continent is the Great Dividing Range of mountains. The range that runs the length of New South Wales are the Blue mountains, so called because at sunset they take on a faint bluish tint. A stunning concoction of mesas thatched with tightly-knit gum tress that also carpet the deep valley floors with the intensity of a dense jungle. When the clouds descend and the mountains are shrouded in a deep steamy-mist with only the highest plateaus visible you could even be forgiven for thinking you are in the heart of the African Congo. To the east of these tablelands the terrain gently slants until it meets the golden beaches of the east coast. To the west lie the farming grasslands that make up the majority of New South Wales. In winter these fertile green meadows roll for hundreds of miles over small hillocks and undulating landscape. A depiction of the English country-side in the height of summer. Hayricks in the fields and grazing animals make it hard to feel away from home, that is until you spot a Kangaroo. In the south of the state the Snowy Mountains grant the opportunity for winter sports. Skiing among gum trees instead of pines. Wombat tracks in the snow instead of Chamois or Snow Hares. On the border of Victoria and New South Wales lies the vast Kosciusko national park named after its star attraction and Australia’s highest peak, Mount Kosisusko (2230M). The tree-less summits here conjure up images of barren moonscapes with their classic curves and rounded zeniths. To the other extreme, Coff’s Harbour on the border of Queensland is a tropical resort town with many banana plantations and world heritage rainforests.

A prime asset of New South Wales are its beaches. Running down the East coast these gargantuan stretches of empty sand can run for upto 40 miles at a time. To the south of the state are plenty of cracking beaches including Pebbly beach which is deserted unless you count the many Kangaroos that visit to watch the surf. Off of Port Stephens Dolphins are plentiful and can be easily spotted along with Whales on their migratory swim south. Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, needs little introduction. On the same latitude as Casablanca this jewel of the Southern Hemisphere is undoubtedly the most breathtaking harbour-city in the world. Besides the Opera House with its magnificent acoustic sails, cuisine taken from the best the world has to offer and a joie de vivre that energises the locals the jewel in the crown that makes Sydney what it is must be the Harbour itself. A grand expanse of blue water continually surging up against the inlet coastline that stretches for over 250 km as it winds its way around a multitude of small coves and bays.

Early morning in the Botanical Gardens gives a inspiring vision of the Opera House and harbour bridge awash in the glorious colours of a new sunrise. Once the sun rises over Woolomaloo bay the cool-calmness of early morning is gradually replaced by the sounds of an awakening city and the procession of urban noises escalates into one continuous tone. At dusk the lazy-warmth of the setting sun energises the sky into a gradual colour fade from orange to blue to purple and the lengthening shadows mould into one overall blackness. The white ripples cut by the continual daytime procession of ferries on the water are stitched shut for the day by the never-ending swells of salt-water and the surface begins to reflect the bobbing-night-lights of Sydney.

Paris has its art, Venice its romance but Sydney’s raison d’être is a free and easy attitude of eternal youth that prevails in this Peter Pan of cities. Whether your pleasure is charming restaurants, fine wine, pulsating nite spots Sydney’s after-dark activities are served up on a shiny silver platter - Dine, Dance and Drag queens, without a doubt Sydney is just as dynamic during the wee hours as it is during the day.

Inhabiting the oldest part of the city is the sophisticated area of the Rocks. A summer-haven of al-fresco dining on the edge of the quay that is illuminated by the Opera House floodlights. Here the many night spots and raucous pubs are located in restored buildings and warehouses. A short taxi ride away lies the raunchy area of King’s Cross. The equivalent of London’s Soho it is unashamedly sleazy with neon lights and conspicuous looking doorways , although they are more for the site-seeing benefit of the tourists rather the dirty-mac brigade. To avoid Kings Cross would be to miss out on some of the wonderful off-beat restaurants, night-clubs and outrageousness that the area is famous for.

Another varied collection of restaurants are located a ten minute walk away in Oxford street. The epicentre of the camp community the main drag is home to every kind of cuisine you could wish for, choose between Thai, Indian, Spanish, American , modern Australian plus many more. Prices range from the Budget-Breaking to six dollar (£3) as-much-as-you-can-eat buffets for the hungry traveller on a shoestring. Circular Key is the heart of the harbour. Adjacent to the city ferries continually depart during daylight hours for various destinations around the harbourage. Take the boat to Watson’s bay where Doyle’s famous fish restaurant lies right on the water front. Here set in the ‘Beverly hills’ of Sydney you can book a table soak up the sun and enjoy a sumptuous lunch caught that very day by Doyle’s own fishing fleet.

A classic excursion is to take the ferry to Manly Harbour where there are several superb restaurants overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Australia may not be best known for run-of-the-mill culture but the beach scene in Sydney is one of the most highly developed in the world. Think of any ten famous beaches and I’ll bet Sydney’s Bondi beach is in the top five. Although famous and glitzy Bondi’s reputation is one for the tourists and the locals flock to the other Eastern suburbs beaches of Tamarama, Coogee, Bronte, Maraoubra or the northern beaches of Manly, Balmoral & Palm Cove. Here await clean sand and well guarded waters watched over by that other famous Australian idol - the bronzed-blonde lifeguard.

South Australia

The next time you pick a bottle of Australian wine from your local supermarket the chances are that is was bottled and grown in the vineyards of South Australia. The predictable climate of the temperate south makes ideal conditions for growing grapes where techniques in brewing are now being exported to many traditional wine making countries. The wine producing valleys of the Barrossa, Eden, Clare and McLaren lie behind the impressive Mount Lofty range that make up the Adelaide hills. Sweeping fields full of vines and hazy ochre-tinted sunsets are where famous brands such as Penfolds and Yalumba dedicate their days to the art of wine making. To the south-east Coonawarra is one of Australia’s finest wine producing districts. The great Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons hold their heads high against the competition from California and Bordeaux. Each winery open to the public for sampling and buying.

Like the French many South Australians consider themselves a connoisseur such is the quality of the locally grown product. But that isn’t the limit of their cultural resourcefulness. Adelaide is the centre of Australian arts - yes Australia does have cultural facet and it’s doing rather well to boot.

The Adelaide fringe, in February 1996 attracted over 339 companies and 4400 artists performing in over 180 venues across the state capital with a significant interest from overseas performers. The bi-annual festival has become an international barometer of Australian culture.

Adelaide is the capital of Southern Australia and probably the fairest of all Australia’s cities . Originally the first choice location for many migrants from England with its temperate winters and Mediterranean summers. A city with the usual suburbs and parks spreading into the very foot of the rolling Adelaide hills that can be seen from anywhere in the city.

With the exception of the fabulous Casino which is housed in the old converted railway station (well worth a visit) the monolithic buildings of the city centre are in great contrast to the single storey dwellings of the suburbs, it almost seems as if the commuter domiciles are bowing down in respect to the giant corporate buildings. But it’s not all concrete and gloomy-grey skyscrapers. The compact-centre is fringed with parks and some wonderful examples of Australian architecture. Shops with the obligatory awnings, metal balcony railings painted in convivial colours, gently sloping roofs and the traditional overhanging balcony for lazing in the sun. No where else are they better spotted then in Rundle Street which also owns one of the most infectious cafe societies I have ever had the pleasure to sample. Here Al fresco dining on the pavement cafes and restaurants is de rigeur. Choose from menus that offer the best cuisine in the world. Choose from Emu steaks, Thai, Italian or the more traditional pie floater - a meat pie covered in pea soup. It’s no trouble at all to relax in one of the many pavement cafe’s order a cappuccino, flat white, long black or any other frothy-caffeined substance and watch the unhurried pace of life that the Australian’s seem to have patented on the world. The easy going attitude of the city makes it amiable to one and all. Even if sitting alone you can soak up the atmosphere and let the mind escape to run free.

If you yield to the call of adventure the Eyre Peninsula offers the sportsman a plethora of aquatic thrills. From black water rafting in underground caves to the ultimate thrill of cage-diving with Great White sharks. Not for the faint hearted - this adventure gives the brave a chance to view these magnificent creatures in their own environment. To attract these giant predators the boat crew spread morsels of fish-flesh and blood on the water to attract the giant predators that can grow up to 9m (or three car lengths) long. While below and without warning the White Pointers appear out of the blue waters bearing razor-sharp teeth only to disappear for an instant then re-appear from a different direction to feed on the titbits floating around the cage.
If Whales are a preference to sharks the best whale-watching locations in Australia are stretched out along the Great Australian Bight. From the biscuit-coloured cliffs you can view migratory southern-right whales swimming in the warm currents of the Bight each year from May to October. Here you are promised more then just a tail flapping above the waves as the gentle-giants can often be seen diving in and out of the southern surf.

For land based fauna sight-seeing take a trip to Kangaroo Island. A thirty minute flight from Adelaide Australia’s second largest island is home to all of its wildlife. From the obvious Roo’s that roam freely about, the island is inhabited by Wallabies, Koala’s, Seals, bush tailed possums, Echidna’s and Platypus’s. A photographers dreamscape with wonderful natural bays and the outstanding areas of natural beauty such as little Sahara with its sparkling white sand dunes entirely surrounded by natural bush and the spectacular rock formations of the Remarkable Rocks sculpted over ten million years by sea and salt-laden wind.

Tucker

Empty your mind the image that ozzie fare goes as far as throwing another prawn on the barbie, this couldn’t be further from the truth. In the last ten years Australian chefs have been like Tigers stalking their prey. Lying low , waiting, watching, observing the rest of the worlds recipes as if it were their quarry. Learning from other nations comestible failures and successes, taking an idea from here, a spice from there and combining it with the freshest ingredients that the farms and fishing fleets provide. Now they have sprung, producing the finest dishes equal to the best chefs of Paris and London, culminating in a world class product that is still, for the main, a relatively unknown fact .

For the fortunate holiday maker this has set the standard for the majority of restaurants and eateries that inhabit the country. Indeed Australia serves up the promise that America likes to boast with its inexpensive menus and value for money dishes. Anywhere you dine your reward will be exotic menus or excellent home cooked food. The first fleet of convicts nearly died of starvation trying to grow vegetables in what is now the Botanical gardens of Sydney. If they were to harvest the deep blue waters of the harbour itself they would find such wonderful delicacies of the sea. Gigantic shellfish Crabs, Prawns and Lobster plus many different kinds of fish taken from fresh from the Pacific. Readily available at throwaway prices Sydney’s chefs make good use of this product in tempting dishes i.e Stormy Bay Mussels in a chilli sauce or Blue Eyed Cod grilled in Moroccan spices . The vast collection of immigrants has influenced Australian cooking. Thai food is widespread and a firm favourite of the young and trendy. South-East Asian restaurants are widespread throughout the country offering their speciality of stir fried dishes and green Thai curries with a heavy base of coconut milk giving a creamy exotic taste to them. Greek food is also in abundance proving that you can never quite escape from the dreaded kebab shop. What of the English influence? Well wherever you go you can be sure that a good old fashioned fish ‘n chip shop will never be far away. An dependable favourite offering the usual servings plus items such as battered king prawns, squid and huge deep fried New Zealand mussels make a change from the norm, although its not wrapped in paper and you can never find any vinegar to put on your chips.

Fax

With over 70 flights a week leaving from the UK getting there is easier then ever. The total journey time for a direct flight averaging little over 20 hours.
If you want to make the most of your time in Oz and see as much as possible then you will need to take several internal flights as any other option is just out of the question ( the country is so large it takes 3 days for a first class letter to get from Perth to Sydney ). This needn’t seem as expensive as it sounds. With a carefully planned itinerary you only need to go one way thus alleviating the need for a return ticket. Both the major airlines (Ansett and Quantas) offer flight coupons enabling you to explore at your pleasure without the constraint of sticking to a rigid timetable. These coupons are pre-purchasable and are cheaper if bought before you leave the UK. Hiring a car is an delightfully easy (they even drive on the same side of the road) and petrol is painfully cheap (approx. £0.35 litre). But then again it needs to be if you’re going to be visiting a lot of places by car.

All visitors to Australia require a valid Visa. This is free but takes twelve days to obtain by post or can be attained on the same day from either the London or Manchester consulates. Details of how to get a visa are given out from the phone number below.
At time of going to press no inoculations are required for visiting Australia but may be if you stop over in Asia on the way.